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Alice Waters on '60 Minutes'...The Interview.

They did a nice romp with Ms. Waters, a founder of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, CA., one of the legendary figures on the food and restaurant scene for 37 years...they called her 'a revolutionary' about her beliefs on 'locavorism' and 'slow food'. She has even tried to influence Presidents about the way to eat. What do you Serious Eaters think...Anyone been to the restaurant lately?

24 Comments:

Before 60 Minutes, I had only heard of Alice Waters through SE, so I was really interested in the interview. She really has accomplished a lot, but logistically, I don't think the slow food philosophy is implementable in all situations. Not everywhere is as progressive or fertile as NorCal.

Here's the link to the video: The Mother of Slow Food — "Alice Waters has been preaching the virtues of cultivating fresh food for decades. As Lesley Stahl reports, this world-renowned chef and restaurateur hopes a slower approach to the food we eat will keeps us healthier and greener."

For another good Alice Waters interview, check out last years interview with Charlie Rose.

I've said this before, but... I appreciate her message, her commitment, etc. But one of the things that bugs me about her, whenever she addresses the cost- and time-prohibitive nature of living this way, she brushes it off: it's incredibly fast, and people make decisions all the time about how to spend their money. "People buy very expensive shoes," she told Lesley Stahl. True, some people do. Some people do that. Other people have cheap shoes, very little luxury, and variable access. There are, for example, poor people in Wisconsin, where they can't get fresh local tomatoes and spinach and asparagus for reasonable prices, or at all, because of their economic situation, their transportation situation, the climate here in the midwest.

My point is, I just feel like while she certainly tries to understand class issues, she just doesn't get it. On a purely personal level, she strikes me as someone who hasn't gone without for large stretches of time, and thus can't really wrap her head around the enormity and complexity of the economic issues for many people. JMO as always.

I went to Chez Pannise in October. The food in her establishment was phenominal. The clientele? Well, not so much. Not to go into details, but I can't handle ubersenstitive left over hippies. BUT, her message is great and the food is delish. She might be a little idealistic, but I think we still need some people to be like that in this world.

Ooh I missed this interview, I'll need to watch it. I haven't been to Alice's restaurant but I did have the opportunity to try some of her recipes from her book The Art of Simple Food when she came to Chicago. She made me an onion lover with her onion tart and her guac was amazing (I blogged about the meal here).

I really like the message she symbolizes and her strong efforts to change the way Americans eat.

Hillary
Chew on That

@BangieB: I agree. I actually got a much worse impression of her than I ever would have thought, after watching that interview. She, at least to me, came off as being really pretentious and snobbish. Not every climate has what California has, and yeah people spend money on shoes, but I spend money on necessities, and if I can't afford great, slow food that is all organic, fancy, natural, local, whatever, then I can't. End of story.

And that breakfast that she made? Please. I already get up at 4:30am just to get to work and then get home at 8:30pm every single weekday, because of work and homework for class. And I don't even have children or anything like that to also take up my time. I would really like to see her try to do all of that while being a single mother, trying to support a child or two (or more) and still keep her sanity.

Yes, it's aspirational and something that would be fabulous to have for everyone, but is it feasible? Not in the least right now.

@Traveller: Ms. Stahl called her out on the breakfast thing. Even if I didn't work outside the home I'm not sure I'd put that much effort into breakfast. I'm lucky to get a bowl of cereal in me before I'm out the door, but I'm not a morning person and get up at the last possible minute. I suppose you can equate that with buying expensive shoes, eh? If I want the gourmet breakfast (sans tomatoes, bleh!) I have to get my lazy ass out of bed earlier. And to afford the food to make the gourmet breakfast I need to buy my footwear at Walmart.

I think Ms. Waters is presumptious. We don't all live in CA where produce can be grown nearly year round. She admitted that she is a dreamer. She has a fabulous vision and has made incredible changes in the way people eat but I think there are way too many factors involved to make it a sustainable (ha) lifestyle for all Americans. She was kind of flip about the whole thing- sort of astounded that not everyone can eat the way she does. I'd LOVE to eat like she does, but Indiana's climate isn't conducive to that lifestyle so I do what I can with what is available to me.

I have been to Chez Panisse and while it was nice- it certainly did not meet my expectations. Maybe after so many years in the food industry I have become jaded but really I dont think so. There was nothing extraordinary about the meal, not once did I close my eyes in bliss. My in-laws have been going to Chez Panisse every weekend since it opened and they just think it is the best thing ever, but it was kind of an "emporor has no clothes" sort of experience to me. Bummer I really wanted a meal to blow me away. That night I had a grilled cheese sandwich and a Miller hi-life that was awesome!

When presented with arguments for eating food that is organic, local, unprocessed, etc., a lot people seem to get so defensive, as though they interpret her saying 'It would be better to eat locally grown, organic food' as 'You had better do things just like I do, or your wrong, and lazy.'

Of course it's not possible for most people to do things just like she does, but there are ways to make an effort, and with a little planning, eat much better without sacrificing very much money or time.

If you have the time and space to have a small vegetable patch in the garden, that's great. But she's not vilifying people who don't.

And no, it's not always possible or easy to get to a farmer's market, but it sure is getting a lot easier, and that's in large part because of the influence of people like Ms. Waters. Maybe she does have her head in the clouds a little, but it takes people like that to make the changes she has.

So you can get angry and defensive and say she's a snob and doesn't understand what people go through or how hard it is and how hard you have it. Or, you can use her as an inspiration to try to learn a little more about how you can eat real food, improve your diet and health, and have a positive effect on the environment in any little way that you are willing and able to. I don't see how the former benefits anyone, but the latter helps everyone.

@BangieB - Your comment really spoke to me. I dated someone for 3 years who was very devoted to eating locally, organic and all that jazz. While I admired him for it, I could not do the same. Now here's the kicker: since we were both young (22, out of college), while I was in grad school on a very tight budget, I could not afford to live such a lifestyle-- and his mother almost came at me with a cleaver! Just kidding. While she didn't come at me a cleaver per se, she worried that her "poor child" (her words, not mine) wasn't eating well. The family literally ate three-course meals for dinner every single night. Nary a Grey's Papaya hot dog or 99 cent piece of pizza ever touched their lips.

What was so funny in the end was how his mother would go on and on about wanting a farm to grow her own food. While an uncle of mine in Mexico works on one, and when his parents came to visit my family there, his mother was quite put off by how much actual WORK went into it. Come to think of it, I don't think she actually did any cooking herself...

All that said, I am for helping at local farms; I just don't think we should avoid the costs issue, especially in this economy. Truth is, I'm not buying organic right now...or expensive shoes, Ms. Waters, though hats off to those who can! (:

@Traveller: btw, I know how you feel. I'm just learning how to cook in the first place, and the only time and energy my BF now and I have for cooking is on the weekends. That said, as @WhatsCookin shows, I'd also like to make certain changes in my life too. I do think about the environment, especially since I grew up in a VERY polluted area of Mexico, and if my (future) child ever had to grow up like that, I don't know what I'd do...

My thought while watching the interview was that while it is absurd to think I am going to cook an egg over a roaring wood fire in the morning, her philosophy is one that deserves more attention, so I hope people tune in to the idea - and don't get turned off because they can't be "prefect". I can't get locally grown produce in Boston year round, but if I have the choice between buying a product grown in New England vs California or South American, I go for the New England product. Incorporating small decisions like this into our daily shopping can have a larger ripple effect. She might do better to emphasize that even if you can't perfect the art of eating fresh and local, you can surely improve upon what you are doing now with only a little effort and thought.

I also thought that the idea of a garden on the White House lawn was worth pursuing - I know our garden is expanding this year!

I like her overall message, the work she does with kids, and her food. What I don't like is seeing articles at least weekly in every type of media possible that say the exact same things, and then reading comments that also say the exact same things. I guess as a person highly interested in both food and the environment, I'm a bit more overexposed than the average person, but I'd like to hear from a fresh voice on this topic!

It would be a shame to watch that interview and focus on a cooking method unaccessible to most people. The cooking method was an unfortunate and ill conceived demonstration that overshadows the real message that could have been achieved with a simply poached or scrambled egg.

The facts not articulated properly are the true cost of food. It may be cheaper now to buy a happy meal breakfast prior to work or grab a pop tart, but it is unhealthy, and the future cost of health care is more prohibitive than paying an extra dollar for the fruit today.

30 years ago, Americans spent 16% of their money on food on 10% on health care, those percentages have been reversed. The nation is extremely unhealthy, and the cost of obesity related diseases exceeds $500 billion annually (diabetes alone costs Americans $200 billion annually to treat) and 5 of the top 10 causes of death.

The simple fact is the American diet is killing the country. It's overly simplified to look at the current cost of the food and make decisions based solely on those prices. Can someone afford to eat a more expensive, healthier meal today, or can they afford not to?

There is nothing I fundamentally disagree with, regarding Waters' message. But sometimes I think she just needs a sense of humor to make her message more accessible. I also think that a bit more joy and silliness rather than reverence regarding cooking might make her teachings a bit easier to swallow.

when i lived in the east bay, i had dinner at the cafe at chez panisse many times and always thought it was extraordinary. alice has done so much to make people here aware of the ramifications between eating local versus agribusiness. she has my complete admiration for her palate, her vision, her ideals, and her influence.

when i am visiting my friends in europe, i'm constantly amazed at how much better the food they are able to buy tastes than what i can get here. they routinely get locally sourced dairy, bread, meat and produce from their little village's markets. their every day meals always seem like incredible feasts because the quality of the food they get is so high. we need to emulate that model here in the states.

These are all wonderful takes on Ms. Waters' culinary philosophy...cybercita, you just hit the nail on the head. Europeans and various towns and villages across the globe have been practicing 'locavorism' for hundreds of years...the concept is relatively new here in the U.S., wouldn't you say?

I'm tired of people saying that Alice Waters is elitist as though that meant that she was irrelevant. Organic produce is more expensive than regular produce -- yes -- 5, 10 years ago it was even *more* expensive. The demand for it, by *elites* (of all classes and income levels) has caused a boom in organic farms and much more interest in a lot of really positive farming practices. Eventually, these foods can be affordable for everyone.

It's also not always accurate to phrase it as though it's an economic issue: pastured eggs roasted in a wood stove and served on organic heirloom tomatoes is pricey and a bit of a deal to make but convenience food is very pricey as well - organic rolled oats, set out to soak the night before with raisins, chopped dates, walnuts and then cooked up in 5 minutes on the stove in the morning with honey and butter stirred in costs far less -- far less! -- than a bowl of cereal, takes 4 minutes longer to make, and is yards healthier as well as tastier.

Hello all. Long time reader, first time commenter.

Yes Ms. Waters does come across as a bit pretentious. The way she sniffed at frozen vegetables was too much. But I feel her heart is in the right place. Her latest cookbook is fierce, and even though there is no way I can afford grass-fed beef the recipes are simple and great. Can you imagine cooking eggs on a olive-oil filled ladle over a hearth in your kitchen? I can hear my friends now...

@HeartofGlass - well said, I totally agree with you. While I'm probably more on the side of people who appreciate Alice Waters and her message, a sense of humor always helps.

I like many "middle Americans" grew up on a farm. We had a garden, huge garden. We did not have a continuous growing season as So Cal does. We did not have ANY money. I wore winter coats that did not zip. I wore hand me down shoes, shirts, socks, everything. I was lucky to have great fresh food all year. What Alice is saying is this...if you are lucky enough to live where you have access to fresh food, real food eat it. Do not waste your tastebuds on hamburger helper. There are so many amazing options...shop on the outside of your market. We ate off of our garden all year, we canned and froze our gardens veggies so we could have healthy (cheap) options in the winter. Gardening, even if it on your patio is cheaper, taking care of our land and teaching future generations to do so is a humble task, not one of an elitist. She is helping to insure that our next generation can take care of themselves.
We are such a fat country. Look at her, she is not 30, 50, 100 lbs overweight. Something she is doing is right. Instead of critisizing, lets learn, lets change our habits. I am disappointed that Leslie Stahl did not paint a more appealing picture of this type of reality. Many many people live this way, even in NYC. It is not so out of touch, she is not a dreamer, she is a realist. Leslie Stahl is out of touch!

First let me say that I am a big proponent of the Slow Food movement and I try to buy organic whenever I can. I live in Japan and I am fortunate to live close to an organic food store. I also have a very small bit of dirt outside my apartment where I plant some vegetables. I also have worked on organic farms through WWOOF in Japan.

That being said, I agree with some of the commentators regarding Ms. Waters. She came across as being extremely pretentious, especially when she said that she thought of herself of a revolutionary -- show a little modesty... and roasting an egg over an open fire? Gimme a break. She wants to convince people she's not elitist? It's great that she has the time and the resources to do that, but in the real world, most people do not.

However, I do think that everyone should try to grow their own food. Even if it is just a tomato plant by the windowsill or planting some spinach in the backyard, as long as one tries. Growing food used to be a large part of human knowledge, and now it is unfortunately limited to just a few. I had no experience whatsoever in growing anything until a year ago, and now I am growing spinach, lettuce, cabbage, mizuna, daikon, and I plan to grow tomatoes when the weather gets warmer. It isn't that hard and it doesn't cost much. Even in a city apartment with no balcony one can grow a couple of small plants and keep a small compost bin with very little money.

Yes, organic food costs much more than "conventional" food, and for those on a limited budget it can be difficult. But for people who aren't living paycheck to payment, it comes down to priorities. Ms. Waters' comment about buying organic food instead of Nike shoes was poorly articulated, but her point is valid -- for those people who can afford it and live in an area where it is available, there is no reason not to buy organic.

There's a moment during her interview where Waters answer her critics by stating it's a choice between $4 grapes or 2 pairs of sneakers. That says everything. She has no answer for the families who can't afford either, and that's why her crusade is one of status, and explains why the unintentional results have been to put farmers who couldn't afford the 2 year certification process to be deemed a CSA, and couldn't compete with those farms who did. We're now passing laws forcing restrictions on farmers, limiting private farming, and putting a stigma on sending food out of State. The right answer, Alice Waters, is that food shouldn't be a financial sacrifice, and that everyone should be able to afford grapes of that quality without paying $4..... but she doesn't care, because she can't fathom why a single mom on welfare can't bake an egg on an iron spoon using a recipe out of a Dungeon and Dragons cookbook.

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