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Butchers: Is there a need for them?

I was thinking the other day....With butcher shops going the way of the typewriter has anyone seen any new ones spring up in the last couple of years? Is there a need and can one attract new customers from a younger demographic who have never been to one?

Foodies are always willing to pay a little more for better or different items.......how about the rest of the population?

I would love your feed back....Thanks

40 Comments:

People are cramming so much into a day that the desire for one stop shopping has done away with a great many specialty stores. That's why places like Wal-Mart exist. Because sometimes you need a pound of butter, a sledge hammer, a birthday cake, a pedicure and an oil change.

We used to go to our favorite butcher for meat, fish monger for seafood, bakery for bread, pastry and celebration cakes, and Italian salumerias for hard-to-find Italian products. This doesn't even take into account some people would go to one butcher for sausage and another for a beef roast!

There are a few "neighborhood" butchers left but I'm afraid their kids don't want to carry on the tradition. There are also gourmet and ethnic places where you can get certain specialized meats but they generally carry a higher price tag.

If anyone opens a small-scale "boutique" butcher with the economy in its present condition, I think he or she is flirting with financial disaster. That type of store might fly when things are bountiful but with everyone pinching pennies, now is not a good time.

I think it depends wholly on where you live. Where I live in NJ (NYC suburbs) the local butcher shop is alive and well. So is the baker. but, I haven't seen a candlestick maker in a while :)

My grandfather owned a very successful butchershop from the early 70s to early 90s, when many domestic purchase quotas were lifted and larger companies started buying meat overseas. His business hinged on the meat produced for local restaurants (some chains) and when those contracts were lost, it was simply too expensive of an operation to rely on local family purchases. Many other butchers (large and small) in the area slowly closed over time, or sold their business to some huge corporate conglomerate.

And therealchiffonade is right about the tradition not being passed - my dad took over part of the business but now only has a small shop to provide specialty butchering (mostly religious/cultural preparations), and my siblings and I certainly have zero desire to take over. It's really hard work, very dependent on the economy (especially purchasing the supply), and difficult to build a strong customer base, not to mention the expense of daily operations. It's hard for the local butcher to offer deals that are competitive with larger operations who absorb the operation costs much more easily.

So, I expect to see less and less small, local butchers...unless, of course, the economy continues the way it is, and larger producers close or scale back.

A few years ago my local fish market, which has been there for 40 yrs, started carrying meat (The Fresh Catch in Mansfield MA). They also added a restaurant on one side. With a Sushi Bar : ) !
I hit the market for meat and fish at least once a week.

I only buy protein from my butcher. People always have comments about how my beef is "beefier", my pork is so moist, my chicken is so tender...because I don't buy pre-packages, saline injected shit from a grocery store that has been sitting there for a week.

THAT being said....I tout my butcher to anyone that will listen to me. Hence, if ever in Northeastern Ohio...specifically the Youngstown/Warren Area, please stop at The Meating Place on New Road. You will never buy anything shrink wrapped again!

My neighborhood (Somerville, MA) has a meat market that sells everything pre-cut and wrapped, but the people working in the back room cut it themselves and the managers will take special orders. This seems the best compromise - cost-effective, but still flexible. I believe grocery stores used to have in-house butchers who could make special cuts as well, but that seems to be rare now.

In the Toledo and Columbus areas people are still smitten with a real butcher, in the form of House Of Meats. Some days it can be difficult to walk through one of their shops because of all the customers, particularly on Saturdays.

Outside of this small chain, and the in-store butcher shop at Sofo Foods in Toledo, things are pretty sad. I'd rather spend an hour at House of Meats or Sofo than 5 minutes at a grocer's meat case.

I just came back from France. It was amazing to me to see how many food shops they have on almost every commercial street. Real butchers, steps away from real fishmongers, cheesemongers, produce stores, bakeries and confectioners. They are within yards of each other, you'll see them across the street from each other. What I like about having a real butcher is that you can get everything and anything from them, as opposed to supermarket butchers and meat counters that will only have limited selections, only selling the most popular cuts. We just don't value food as much as other cultures do. It's sad, but we serious eaters are a minority here. I am this close to moving away from this country. All it would take would be for a certain septuagenarian to be "elected" and my bags are packed.

oh, I think so...I live in a city with no immediately available butchers, save the clowns at the chain grocery stores, and i'll be the first to tell you, $7.50 an hour does not a butcher make. in terms of selection of meats and in terms of actual knowledge and experience in butchery, i'd so much rather have an actual like, real butcher.

This board might be an inaccurate place to look for a general consensus on going to butchers, for the reason you mention - foodies will often go the extra step for better or specific items.

I have access to 5 butchers selling all cuts of goat, lamb, beef, pork, poultry, etc. within 5 minutes drive from where I live at an indoor farmer's market. The market also sells fresh caught seafood, all sorts of dairy products, fresh and dried herbs, fresh baked pies and pasties (not a typo), pasta, all varieties of veggies and fruits direct from the source. We have a large African, Latino, Eastern and Western European, Arabic, Jewish, and Asian population in the area so there's a wide variety of stuff available too.

Despite having that available so close to me, I go to a grocery store 20 minutes away for 99% of my ingredients due to my dislike for crowds. The market described above is ALWAYS crowded. When I do my grocery shopping, it's at 3 a.m. or some time when people aren't around and when the farmer's market is closed, which isn't hard to do. They're closed 3 days a week, Sunday being one of the days, and on days they are open, they close at ~5 p.m. If I need goat or lamb for a dish, I'll make an effort to go there though.

There's a butchershop in my town that's been here through several generations, and there are a lot of younger guys working there, along with some oldtimers.

The place is usually busy, but the only time it's crazy busy is before holidays, when there's a line snaking through the store. But even then, it's efficient, and they know to expect crowds, so they've got everyone working those days.

There is also a meat packing house not too far away, and that's where I pick up the lamb I buy every year, and hunters will bring in their elk for processing during that season. Some of the smaller farmers bring other livestock there as well.

So it seems we're pretty well covered, as far as fresh meat is concerned.

Mass production and butchering of meat is beginning to become a product awareness issue (I'm sure you've all heard of the Lysteriosis breakout at Maple Leaf here in Canada)--I took that tragedy as a lesson learned; I really hope others (ie. non-foodies i guess) would learn from this as well. Go straight to the source!

My family frequents a pork store in central NJ. He makes the ultimate chicken francaise and potato croquettes. The cold cuts can't be beat, either. It is more friendly, although more expensive than the typical supermarket, but we have a good repoire with the owner - helps us out a lot. If butchers/pork stores go by the wayside, there is one less reason to live.

dear lord do I need a new butcher shop. I had to move (needed a better neighbourhood to raise kids!) and now there is none near by. I crave real meat again. The butcher is a place I love to go. Our old butcher we had a real rapport with. We would bring him homemade wine from time to time. he knew us by name. There were a few times where he called me up to tell me that there was something special in that day and would I like him to hold me some good stuff?

It's things like that that I really love about local shops. Never find that at a chain store.

I live in Charlottesville, VA and we have a relatively new butcher (opened in the last few years). They appear to be doing quite well and we buy all of our land and air based protein from them. (There's a fishmonger right next door...we get virtually all of our water based protein there unless our friend at the fish counter at Whole Foods lets us know of something particularly exceptional there.)

I agree that in the current economy, it doesn't seem like a good time to open a butcher shop. I'm very very (very) happy that we've got our local butcher, though. I'd have a hard time going to back to the offerings at our local grocery stores.

Our experience is a little different. We run a family farm and local produce business on the coast of Georgia. We have recently begun selling our own pasture raised beef. The demand is very high and response has been wonderful. Our customers love our beef and we love that our steers can go directly from the farm to the butcher and do not have to be sold by way of a feed lot. On the other hand, the nearest butcher that handles poultry is 3+ hours away. With the coast of fuel, such a trip is simply not possible. Lack of access to a butcher for us means lack of access to pastured poultry for our customers.

We have a German butcher about less than 15 minutes from where we live. Their prices are reasonable, their butchers are talented and extremely cordial and they are always happy to see me walk in the door. Most times I order "custom" cuts and they want to know what I am making. It is a warm and friendly shop and always my first choice.

I'm 23 and I love going to various places for my items. Perhaps that is because I lived in Paris for awhile and I went to the Boulangerie, Fromagerie etc, etc, on a daily basis, but I love doing so! It makes me feel good to walk to each place, get to know the owners and employees, take my time to pick out fresh ingredients and enjoy every minute of it.

I am not sure of the practices of other young people, but that is what I do. I even work way too much and go to grad school, so I do not have much time but I love it so much that I make time. I am all for butcher shops, bakeries, cheese shops, and all other specialty stores!

Thank you all. My question was prompted by a never ending search for a nice cut. I have found a couple of shops but nothing near me (30 min min). With that said I do like the service and the quality (although limited) at my local Price Chopper. I live in a little New England town with a nice town green. The businessman in me was wondering if a shop here would stand a chance.

Thanks again and keep the feedback coming!

In my writings about chocolate here on Serious Eats and other places I have often said that the relationship you want to have with your chocolatier is the relationship your grandmother wanted to have with her butcher. Fortunately, I have cultivated this kind of relationship with my butcher. His name is Sal. I live in southern Westchester county and at least once a month (more often around the holidays) for the past twelve years, I have been trekking south into the Bronx to shop in the Italian neighborhood known as Arthur Avenue.

I can get anything I need from Sal and if it's a little out of the ordinary I call up in advance and he gets it for me. If I have a question about what cut to use for a particular menu, Sal helps me out. Everything is trimmed exactly the way I ask - whether it's butterflying flank steak or deboning a leg of lamb without butterflying it. And even though I tip generously, I end up spending less than I would spend at the local "specialty" butcher in the gourmet store about five minutes from my home, even when I factor in the cost of gas.

Besides my butcher (Biancardi's), I have developed strong ties with my fishmonger (Randazzo's), greengrocer (Boiano Brothers in the retail market), general goods store (Teitel Brothers), and deli (Tino's). I also have a favorite bread store (Madonia Brothers) and pasta store (Borgatti's).

For me a trip down to the Avenue is an opportunity to relax and enjoy. I plan my route based on what I want to buy and always build in time to take a few moments (that sometimes stretches to half an hour if they want to introduce me to new delicacies) to connect with and to the people I'm buying from. They all know my name and there's always a hello when I walk in. And I know where to buy the best cup of coffee in the neighborhood.

Apart from the fact that the prices are hard to beat (even at my local Costco), it's the welcome that keeps me coming back ... because I have made it a point to turn shopping on the Avenue into an adventure, not a chore to be endured.

I do not trust butcher shops. I raised a pig, took it to the butcher, and found out he just traded his meat for mine. Man, I practically hand fed my pig, we called him dog, and he had the best, with a little love to boot!! Now, my husband and I do all our own butchering on deer and elk....we don't really know what we are doing, but we know its our meat in the package and not some old deseased animal.PUKKK

I love my butcher, he makes really unique sausage and rubs. Walke Meats in Claremore,OK. it is the only meat shop i know of in the area.
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@cocoloco ~ wow, I'm feeling outraged and it didn't even happen to me. I'll bet he kept your pig for himself. Did you raise a fuss? Can he be sued? I'd want some sort of revenge and restitution. My Irish temper would have raised its ugly head. I know that because I can feel it rising, just reading of your experienc. You have to fill in the blanks. You didn't just take it lying down, did you?

I actually have a cousin who is a butcher. He trained in a small butcher shop, but then ended up having to take a job as a grocery store butcher because that was all the work that he could find in the 90s. I think he's still at the grocery store, but I do know that he also runs his own side business roasting whole pigs for partys.

Now that I'm thinking of it, there is a butchery near me, Treuth & Sons, in Oella, MD. I believe they do have a retail shop in addition to their wholesale division which ships up and down the east coast. Perhaps a field trip is in order, because I'm increasingly unhappy with the quality available in grocery stores.

The problem for me is that I was raised vegetarian, so while I'm now fully committed to being okay with eating meat I still get a little squeamish looking at the "where it came from" part. Buying it in little sterile packages at the grocer helps me pretend it was never a living critter. That said, if we're going to do it, we may as well go to an artisan who cares about doing it right. So, to answer the question, yes, I do think there should still be butchers. It's a natural part of the locavore movement.

This time of year(deer hunting and turkey) I pay particular homage to my butcher. I have noticed the trend of butchers preparing proteins. We have a butcher in my town that also specializes in BBQ. It seems to work out good for him. I think that butchers are going to have to invent new ways of keeping the customers coming in. I hope they can becuase I would hate to have my only choice be the megamart.

@josephtetro, like Sapelo, I am ITB (I run an online marketplace for farm specific, connoisseur quality meat and also support top natural or organic producers through a related education program).

I strongly believe a butcher shop can succeed, even in tough times, though perhaps not in all markets. IMHO, the key is that butcher needs to offer genuinely differentiated products. Too many of them sell the same commodity beef as the pre-packed stuff you get at the supermarket (and often at higher prices). Economically, a butcher will also need to sell higher margin items or products that meet the needs of those who don't have time to cookl, e.g. prepared foods or meat complements.

As Sapelo notes above, there are a lot of people who want to buy meat directly from the farm. However, the farm-to-fork distribution system doesn't always exist to support this. Some farmers/ranchers located in or close enough to large cities and that also have a top quality butcher nearby have a relatively easy time direct selling their products. For others, the Internet or an aggregator can help broaden reach beyond the immediate market.

If you want to talk more, I'm happy to help you figure out if this is something you want to do.

How would I get suuuuuper-thin beef for pho? Fresh rabbitt, fresh veal, fresh duck - from my boyfriend - the butcher!! I need him to sharpen my knives... I need him to make "stew meat" from fillet.... and when he's not around - I need his co-workers to wrap up 1/4 pound of pepper bacon for a single BLT.... I LOATHE factory-packaged meat in pillow packs, and like to know there are men sweeping bone dust off my new yorks in a cold room. oi.

Yes, in a word. I've found out that we're going to be getting several more locally and I couldn't be happier - and I'll support them as much as I can.


just ask my wife...lol

I definitely think there is a need for local butchers...especially with the food environment being what it is. Unfortunately I don't have a local butcher close, but we do have a small supermarket that makes their own sausage & does their own butchering, so I frequent them alot. I also try to frequent a European sausage & meat shop - Spars - that is in the city at least once a month....they make the best sausage, and I can trust what I'm buying from them.

Clay Gordon has sooo many good points about this too. Premium selection of cuts, customized butchering and quality are all things you really can only get from your local butcher.

I have a good relationship with the German butcher about 20 mins from me. Nver mind all that--I LOVE the smells of a butcher!!!!!!!!!! MMMMmmmm....

Thank you oliver, I will take you up on that. And sorry about Dog (the pig)!

Butcher shops still have a place in this world. I'm 23, and I feel many of my friends have begun to question what is in their food and how it was produced. One of the simplest ways to be certain about this is to visit your local butcher. Butchers also carry or have the ability to acquire a wider selection then your resident box mart.

I've had my butcher since I first moved here (Long Island) in 1961; started with his Dad and now the son runs the place. I have confidence in what I get there. Will say I do pick up a few things at the supermarket but I'm loyal to him for the most part. Hopefully he'll be there for a long time. surrah@optonline.net

Real butchers can save you money - not a specialty service for good economic times - just the opposite. A real butcher will tell you how to cook a very economical cut of meat, they'll show you how to coax wonderful flavor out of cuts you may not have tried. They can also sell the pricey cuts to the guys from AIG, but I just made the most amazing chilli with stock I made from trotters and bones and a couple of pieces of leg meat. Three of us had several meals on what might be considered mostly scrap. Go back to the cooking of grandmas...

@josephtetro, super. Wondering if you or site admins can advise how we can privately exchange contact information on Serious Eats?

Here in San Diego, Ca. we have very few butchers with the majority selling low quality meats to the hispanic population with the meat coming from mexico and it's not the best unless you marinate it heavily and burn it on the grill then smother it in sauce and the mystery meat sausages filled with a paste like substance .On fishing trips to Cabo I've eaten Sonora beef, a t-bone they called porterhouse, with a big hype about it while it was being burnt and it was as expected like the sole of my leather sandal dry and grissely. We desparatly need a quality butcher not meat cutters , big difference, Bristol Farms has choice meats but they get it pre-packaged cut and wrapped individually . The last real butcher near me, a German, has gone to mainly in-house sausage fresh made and smoked all his own receipes and they are excellent you can actually see the meat and fat no mysteries also smokes his own bacon different woods and cures also has english rashers and so on, he even used to dry-age his beef but couldnt afford the refrigeration system the usda and health depts required, a tragic loss for us.I'm sure if someone opened a Real butcher shop and cut their product from hanging meats the quality would be A-one and they would come in masses, with the right variety of meats and processed meats products not just a glorified deli with the usual generic so-called speciality brands we all know the names, one could have a thriving business.

you know, ive had this secret fantasy about becoming a butcher for a few years now. probably nothing will come of it, but i just think cuts of meat are so pretty.

All this talk about Butchers... I am a Trade Qualified Butcher; yes the trade does exist but not in the US, here they are meatcutters with "certification" and I use that word as a toungue in cheek expression.

The trade of Butchery is dead. Although sad but it is a sign of the times.

I gained my trade in Australia (where all butchers are trade qualified). Starting out at the ripe old age of 16 and 80$, 7 days a week and required college education for 4 years with 6 years on the job training.

I have learnt all facets of the "trade" from slaughter to center of plate, breakdown of all carcasses including kangaroo!!

I have gained employment as a Butcher in San Diego and am to happy to pass on my experiences. I would like at some stage to faciliate formal Butchery education and am currently undertaking the investigations to do so.... It would be nice to see the Trade recognised again. I know that i would like to see the Bakers and candle stick makers return....

Well said SD Butcher. I have previously expressed my interest in at least improving my knife skills and learning to debone meat and fish with skill. I'd take a class in a heartbeat! Also, I wouldn't be opposed to seeing three men in a tub. Rub-a-dub-dub indeed! ;-)

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