Food markets in Chinatown, good stuff?

In a few cookbooks I've flipped through recently, the introduction to the Seafood section always contains some preface about fishmongers and fish markets. They warn, "if a fish market smells fishy, they're carrying old fish." I walk down Grand St. almost every day and I see (and smell) a whole lotta fish. There are plenty of people shopping, so what gives?

What is the quality of food at markets in Chinatown?

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