What's Your Best Boeuf Bourguignonne?
I'm making some for Sunday Supper... I love my own adaptation, but boeuf bourguignonne is one of those dishes that's so classic, and has been around so long, that there's really no "right" way of doing it. Some say to marinate the beef in wine first. Some just brown the meat and add the wine later. Some call for bacon or drippings. Some don't. Some call for lots of vegetables. Some call for virtually none aside from the aromatics. Some contain potatoes. Others just put it over mashed potatoes.
My own preferred method definitely relies on the overnight wine soak -- when I discovered this step, I was blown away. It evoked sexual comparisons in my mind. And I go with crazy lots of veggies -- leeks, turnips, carrots, etc. I do the potatoes either way depending on mood.
But I'm always looking to try new tricks. Got any favorites to share?
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15 Comments:
I want your recipe LoCo - sounds like it would really hit the G spot (for gastronomical)!
I make Ina Garten's recipe, but don't like the frozen pearl onions. They have an off taste. I am an onion lover, so I just roast some and add them to the pot. Anyone have a better solution? I like the idea of even more vegetables, but mushrooms must predominate. Mashed potatoes may be one of my favorite foods, but this dish belongs on egg noodles IMHO.
PerkyMac at 2:37PM on 02/23/08
Thomas Keller's version in Bouchon was stunning, but (of course) a lot of work. The main distinctions are, in my memory:
1) Keller reduces the wine--a whole bottle-- with a lot of aromatics to a glaze consistency as an initial step (he uses beef or veal stock in the actual braise).
2) Then he adds more chopped aromatics and herbs to the pan, covers with cheesecloth, and places the browned meat (short ribs, off the bone, cut into chunks) on top. Beef or veal stock to just cover.
3) After the braise, he takes the meat into a separate pan and strains the liquids of all the solids. This gets chilled to separate the fat.
4) He prepares the garnish vegetables separately (potatoes, carrots, onions).
These refinements make the final dish gorgeous and, of course, delicious. The color is beautiful. However, I was a little disappointed with the separately cooked veg: I understand not wanting mushy veg that cooked 2 hours and lost all flavor during the braise, but I prefer to use some of the cooking liquid when cooking the garnish, so they take on some of the stew-s flavor.
I also recently tried Bourdain's from the Les Halles cookbook. Came out very well but I found that I had to use twice as much wine as instructed. His recipe is pretty typical, garnished only with carrots.
renzata at 3:37PM on 02/23/08
Perky, I agree. I never use frozen pearl onions because they have a strange flavor and a mushy, slimy texture. My local supermarkets sell bags of whole pearls and boilers where the other onions are located, usually close to the shallots and garlic. Give it look-see.
My BB is an amalgam of various recipes (as usual) along with my own ideas of what "belongs" in a beef stew (as usual). The classic is technically a beef with burgundy sauce, while mine is more of a stew or daube. It's very similar in technique to the one in Joy of Cooking or this one at Food & Wine, both of which call for the wine-soak. I don't always use bacon, never use kneaded butter (prefer a roux), and I generally add the mushrooms much earlier than these recipes call for. Also, as previously mentioned, I use a lot more vegetables because I like it stew-style. This weekend it will be cooked in bacon drippings, and will have turnips, carrots, leeks, mushrooms, onions, thyme, and cipollinis.
Many recipes call for tomato paste or tomatoes, and garlic. I've never tried it this way, but I'm thinking it would have a nice Provençal quality.
LoCo at 3:42PM on 02/23/08
@perky - If you have access to cipollini onions (they seem to be in very good stock at the grocery right now), they are a far superior onion to use as a substitution for pearl onions, which are not my favorite, especially the frozen guys. If you aren't familiar with them, they are slightly larger, but flatter and much sweeter. One word of caution - you can get addicted to those babies, especially at the anti-pasto bar. The last time I made the Les Halles recipe and that just called for 4 sliced onions, so I don't think pearls are a requirement for a true French bistro version.
@LoCo - I really like the way you think. lol... When you serve this, do folks at your dinner parties have a " I'll have what she's having" moment? Now who told you to do the overnight red wine marinade? That always makes things better. What cut of beef do you use? The Les Halles version called for a "paleron", but unless you want your butcher to think you've recently arrived from another planet (which mine did), you'll settle for something else. In my case, I used boneless tri-tip, which was magnificent, but would that cut stand up to an overnight marinate in wine? The Les Halles recipe is very easy and spectacular in flavor, but there is always room for improvement. I love the idea of the other vegs and I could cut back on the mushrooms, which the SO is not a huge fan of. What about parsnips in addition to the carrots? I usually do steamed redskins on the side instead of the noodles, but I think the pasta is a classic combo with the dish, as well.
frederika at 3:57PM on 02/23/08
I really like Craig Claiborne's Boeuf Bourguignon II recipe in "The New York Times Cookbook," copyright 1961. It's on pages 98-99 in my hardback copy. (Note: I have never tried his Boeuf Bourguignon I recipe that immediately precedes it.)
My two tiny quibbles with CC's BB II are: (1) 350 degrees is too high for the oven portion; I find that a gentler 325 degrees delivers the goods without toughening the meat, and (2) the lemon juice added to the mushrooms under saute adds an element I don't really like (and I love lemons).
The smell of the bacon, leeks, and other root vegetables being sauteed is heavenly! Reason enough to try this recipe.
CheesePlease at 4:02PM on 02/23/08
@fred'a... ha, ha, ha... actually, the first time I tried the wine-soak hubby and I both had a HarryMetSally moment. We were just astonished at what a difference it makes!
I actually first found the wine-soak step in Joy which was kind of a surprise, because I'd never even thought to look at a BB recipe before. I'd always just sort of winged it from my dad's version, which is leek-heavy, and the wine goes in after the browning. Incidentally, he calls it Basque Stew, for no real reason other than he thinks it's funny that people believe him when he says that's what it is (yes, he's warped).
Hahaha... too funny... tri-tip is my cut of choice for almost all beef braises (I've noticed that you and I tend to think alike). It's reasonably priced, adequately fatty without being WAY fatty, sturdy enough for a braise, but still plenty tender. I use tri-tip for chili, too! Obviously, brisket or chuck are traditional, and I've even used sirloin with decent results. But tri-tip always seems to be the best.
Yes, I've used parsnips, but if you do that, cut back on the carrots, or it's just too sweet IMHO.
I'm putting cut up potatoes in this batch, because we're having meatloaf later in the week, and I didn't want to have mashed twice. It's good on pasta, but I like it best with potatoes!
LoCo at 4:27PM on 02/23/08
@ LoCo - (while giggling hysterically and SO can't figure out why) - Dad's warped too? Along with recovering vegetarian bro and SIL? I just love your family! We've got to get into the chili thing! I've promised my husband the next chili will be a true Tex-Mex with tri-tip instead of ground meat or chicken. I don't want to hijack the BB thread, should we start a new one? Sorry for rambling, I'm just a little high from the success of my white stock today and my friend GG (Grey Goose). Happy day...
XO
frederika at 6:22PM on 02/23/08
I use a crazy hybrid recipe. It's a combination of The New Best Recipe's version and the joy of cooking version. I have a great (wonderful amazing) mushroom supplier, who gets me all sorts of locally grown, strange mushrooms. I love to surprise him every week with the recipe I use them in.
I also like to use buffalo steaks, since it's basically a braise it gives the buffalo a wonderful texture and taste. I don't usually use burgundy, I use a pinot noir most of the time (most burgundies in my area are cheap). So those are my 3 rules, I guess:
1. Good mushrooms (branch out from the buttons...)
2. Buffalo steaks
3. A good Pinot Noir
I usually make mashed potatoes, or occasionally noodles, and pour it over.
lo82070 at 9:26PM on 02/23/08
@lo82070 - Strange mushrooms? I think I've heard about those!!! Do you see colors other than burgundy? haha...
My husband would really like the buffalo steak . ( He actually gets to look out his office window at a herd of buffalo every day.) What about cabernet? I was thinking that the stronger flavor of the buffalo could possibly work with a cab?
frederika at 9:44PM on 02/23/08
@frederika... Okay. I'll bite. he stares out his OFFICE window at a herd of BUFFALO all day??? WTF? Where do y'all live, anyway?
As far as wine goes. Well, typically, if you use a French burgundy, you're going to be using pinot anyway. So I agree, go with a pinot. That's what my tri-tip is absorbing as I type. Of course, I'm drinking the rest... hiccup...
I've used merlot (works surprisingly well for such a low-key wine), zinfandel (really good, and I bet it would be excellent with bison), cabernet, and even a syrah-heavy blend. It all depends on what you like in the finish. I'd say, as long as it's fairly dry, and not TOO heavy on the tannin, you're good to go!
Just don't use GG... giggle..
@fred'a... start a chili thread. I'll be there. Oh. And post a discussion of your white stock on the stock thread, okay?
:-)
LoCo at 9:53PM on 02/23/08
@LoCo - We live in SoEast MI. At least the bison seem to like the weather!
I already posted on my progress on the stock thread earlier and I'm giving the chili one some thought. I was having a craving last week. But now I need BB.(already had the GG)
frederika at 10:26PM on 02/23/08
i tried this one a couple of months ago and it was wonderful:
http://www.burgundytoday.com/gourmet-traveller/chefs-recipes/beef-burgundy.htm
astarteny at 4:23AM on 02/24/08
The one from the Les Halles cookbook. That is THE classic.
jperlow at 9:08AM on 02/24/08
Okay, so I did my Sunday Supper. But, I forgot to brown the meat in bacon drippings, even though the dish was sitting right there next to the stove (oh well, olive oil works fine), and I added SO many vegetables, and SO much stock, that I've decided it was really a Ragoût de Bœuf à la Bourguignon (Burgundy-Style Beef Stew). It really bore no resemblance to traditional bœuf bourguignonne by the time it was finished. But, I used homemade beef stock, which I spent the entire previous day and night making, so it was totally delicious!
I'm going to try out some of the classic, traditional recipes y'all have posted here. I don't have the Les Halles cookbook, yet, so I guess I'll get that one, along with Julia's Mastering the Art. Thanks everyone!
LoCo at 12:43PM on 02/25/08
I swear by the Julia Child recipe! It never fails.
kll205 at 2:34PM on 02/25/08