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CALLING ALL PIE CRUST MASTERS: Which Rolling Pin?

As I've mentioned before, my biggest shame in the kitchen is my inability to make a decent pie crust. I've tried for years -- about 20 of them! I've used all the tricks, various recipes, and whatever. It's literally driven me to tears.

After many years of fear and avoidance, I'm ready to give it another go. But I discovered the other day that I no longer have a rolling pin! What the heck? How do you lose a rolling pin? Maybe I tossed it in a fit of pique.

So, I'm leaning toward a long tapered wooden dowel-type. But maybe a traditional handled type with a flour-filled pastry cloth would be better? Or a marble one that can be chilled? What about those new silicone covered models?

What say you? Which kind have you hated? Which do you swear by?

23 Comments:

I use a tapered dowel pin and don't have any complaints. I can't remember the last time I picked up the traditional handled kind. I can't say what exactly, but I don't think the thing that's been standing in your way to a decent pie crust is the rolling pin.

I have a marble one that I think is too strong for most pie and tart doughs so I really only use that for bread dough. The only kind I'll use for pies and tarts is a tapered French rolling pin.

Have you tried Dorie Greenspan's pie dough recipe? Here's a link: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=15324538 I have made dozens of pies with this recipe and not had one failed crust!

I've also found a pie rolling bag a huge asset to rolling since the "mess" is contained in one bag, and it's quite easy to roll a circle since that's the shape of the bag! Also you can put the pie pan in the bag, one flip upside down, and a very easy transfer of dough!

You can buy both the rolling pin and pie rolling bag for less than $15. That plus Dorie's recipe and my KitchenAid food processor helped me get over my fear of pie dough and turn out some awesome pies! Good Luck!

i love my french pin. have you tried the cooks illustrated pie crust recipe? i used it over the holidays and was suitably impressed. it's on this website -- look under most emailed.

what recipes have you tried, and what methods have you used? maybe we can do some problem solving.

i can sympathize with your plight. i can do just about anything well in the kitchen except make a really good cup of coffee, no matter what kind of beans or type of coffeemaker i use. it's a curse.

I use a plain, heavy rolling pin with ball bearings in it. It's wood and we got it from Linens and Things. I tend to go for the regular straight pin vs. a tapered one. I'm always afraid I'll wind up with bowed pastry that's thick on the outside edges.

I too have had anxiety over pie crust since marrying into a "pie-loving" family - every pie has to be homemade, just like mom's... ugh, I was just fine buying my pies from Costco but I've embraced the challenge and I've put my skills to test.

I agree with bobcatsteph3 - the food processor is my new best friend when it comes to pie crust... it's fantastic. The other secret is to use ice cold butter and to handle it as little as possible.

I place the dough between 2 sheets of wax paper and use my silicon pin - works well but I haven't tried a french pin.

I use the tapered pin as well, but my mom has the straight dowel (I think it's literally a straight dowel, cut and sanded by my dad). If I could have found a straight pin, I'd have bought that instead. But I'm happy with the tapered, too. I find the handled ones are best for playdough.

I also recommend the food processor method, plus lots of practice and above all, not over-thinking it. I didn't have success with pie dough until I stopped worrying about it. The less effort I spend on it, the better it is (that over-working problem avoided). With a processor and prepped ingredients, you should be able to get from pouring the flour into the machine to a pressed disc of dough sitting on plastic wrap in well under a minute.

For rolling, I use a flexible plastic cutting board. Easy to clean and easy to turn. Plus you can pick the whole board up to move it to the dish.

A metal bench scraper is very helpful (and good for much more--eg., crushing tomatoes directly in the pan).

For recipes, I like Julia Child's from her baking book. It calls for half butter and half shortening, but I use 3/4 butter, 1/4 shortening. The shortening does make a difference.

I hate the Joy of Cooking flaky pie dough. I also tried a Gale Gand recipe with vinegar (similar to Cook's Illustrated vodka idea) and it wasn't so special.

tapered French style has been my fav ever since I bought it

I use a regular wooden rolling pin. I've never had a problem. I've heard some people swear by marble rolling pins, though.

Has anyone here tried a crust recipe using liquid vegetable oil for the shortening, then rolling it out between sheets of waxed paper? It really is flaky, but I'm sort of cringing waiting for the critiques.

molbec,

there is a recipe for a pat in pie crust in amanda hesser's book, cooking for mr. latte, that i later traced to an ancient copy of fanny farmer. it calls for a half cup of oil, milk, almond extract, flour, salt, and sugar, stirred together with a fork and then patted into an 8x8 pan. i've made it a thousand times, using many different kinds of fruit {apples, peaches, blackberries, apricots, rhubarb, plums} and a streusel topping. it's pebbly rather than flaky, but it is just delicious, and perfect for a one crust pie.

LoCo, you are not alone! As much as I bake, I have struggled over the years with pie crusts from time to time. I'm going to stray from the common wisdom here though and say that what finally brought me success was NOT using my food processor. I make an all-butter crust (ice-cold butter, as sshokie says), and use a sturdy pastry blender (like this one: http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=728174) to cut it in. One egg yolk and ice water bring it together, and you absolutely have to let it rest before rolling it out. Lots of recipes suggest 30 minutes of resting, but I think an hour is the bare minimum. I have a plain French wooden rolling pin (no handles) and it works like a charm. I roll out between sheet of plastic wrap, but I think I'm going to try the bag that bobcatsteph recommended.

Good luck!

I've used a wooden one and a marble one with no problems but my favorite one now is a wine bottle filled with water that I keep in the refrigerator .. it's super!

I use my great grandmother's old school wooden rolling pin. It is well seasoned and works perfectly.

every rolling pin has been fine so long as:

a) it rests long enough (4 hour - overnight)
b) it's still cold when you roll it
c) lots of flour

I use Bernard Clayton's Basic Crust from his Complete Book of Pastry. I did all lard this year, but I've done all butter (warms up very fast) and half butter half crisco. And I mix it in the food processor - but it is easy to over water it that way. Usually everything works out during the refrigerated rest.

i do an all butter crust, got the recipe from epicurious. it was written for a food processor but i used my hands and it's perfect everytime. i have a marble roller and i hate it, it's bulky and too heavy, i really want a tapered french one. another that i've used is my grandmothers hollow plastic rolling pin. fill it with ice and water and it keeps your dough cold as you roll!

I have to agree with DaveFaris that the rolling pin is unlikely to be the culprit in unsatisfactory pie crusts; I've used everything from a slick silicon item to a glass bottle, and it hasn't made a bit of difference. The recipe, and following it precisely, are definitely key, and I too have had excellent results with 'Cooks Illustrated' recipes.
I always roll out between two sheets of baking paper/thin silicon baking sheets, or I spend most of my time swearing, and scraping rapidly warming, greasy dough off the pin.

I always chill everything I'm going to use; I use ice water, and I restrain myself forcibly from adding too much water (dough gets sticky and frustrating) or flour (dough gets dry and heavy); I have never had the least bit of success making an appealing whole-grain pie dough (I think the ability of the gluten to form sheets is really critical to the overall texture).

bobcatsteph3, the pie bag sounds interesting, but how do you get the crust out?

I use an old-fashioned wood rolling pin w/ handles (but no ball bearings). It's big and heavy and I love it. I think what is more important is the rolling surface and a cover on the rolling pin. I use a well-floured pastry cloth for the former and a knitted rolling pin sleeve (also well floured) for the latter. I believe technique trumps equipment and recipe. Pie crust ingredients are pretty cheap so I advise my students (I am a Certified Pie Coach) to throw away a troublesome crust and start over.

Wow! Thanks for all the feedback so far!

Just so everyone understands, I am not EVEN expecting the rolling pin to be the solution to my pie crust woes! If only!!!

It's simply that I do not own a rolling pin.

(I did own one once, but it seems to have vanished. I didn't even realize it was gone. Perhaps my ex got custody of it, though I don't know why since he can barely cook, much less bake. Or maybe one of the kids accidentally broke it and "forgot" to tell me. No matter.)

Since this is (arguably) an essential tool for crust-making, I feel compelled to purchase myself THE perfect rolling pin. It can't hurt.

The expert opinions and experiences of my heroes (i.e., all you enviably accomplished crust-makers) are SO appreciated. Please keep 'em coming!


P.S., I did see one that looked really cool. It's a French-style (tapered dowel) made of metal, so it can be chilled for pastry work! Whattaya think?

For whatever it's worth, Cooks Illustrated rated rolling pins in 2005, and their favorite was the "Fante's French Rolling Pin with Tapered Ends (large), $7.99, length 20 1/2", diameter 1 3/4", 15 1/2 oz." As for your metal tapered pin, they said "This pin is too slippery once your hands get greasy, is too narrow and light to be really efficient, and offers too little advantage in terms of keeping dough cool."

To Mongoose: the pie crust bag, here's a link to one: http://www.amazon.com/Harold-Pie-Crust-Maker-14/dp/B0000CFTQT/ref=pd_bbs_1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1199761885&sr=8-1

It has a zipper and opens almost all the way around, except for where it's attached. (This isn't the one I have which I bought at Lehman's Amish supply store in Ohio, but I do recommend the larger 13" or 14" bags.

You keep both sides well floured and flip and turn the crust same as you would between wax, or on a cutting board. You could take the dough out the traditional way by rolling it around a rolling pin, or folding it. But I've found if I stick a pie pan in the bag, close the bag, and flip over, my dough inverts into the pan perfectly! No mess and thankfully no tearing!

And for a few more tips, as other commenters have aluded to about perfect pie dough and cold ingredients (I do hope you're using unsalted butter and not dreaded margarine folks!) I keep trans fat free Crisco sticks and butter in the freezer, and cut them up while I stick ice water in the freezer. Put the cut up butter and crisco back in the freezer, prep the rest of the dry ingredients in my food processor, and this assures the cold items stay cold as I bring them out again when they are ready for the food processor.

This weekend I made Go Buckeye (as in Ohio State Univ.) Cherry Pie, and thank goodness the pie turned out more awesome than the nat'l championship game so far!

you may consider a crust bag for rolling out crusts next time. perfectly round crusts every time!

my favorite rolling pin is one my dad turned from an old piece of hickory. it does not taper, the stain is natural (non-toxic and does not affect food), and it's very heavy.

Thanks so much, everybody, for sharing your observations and expertise! With your help and support, I feel ready to buy. And that's the first step in overcoming my pie crust issues. (I feel like I'm in a 12-step program.)

So, this week I'm getting myself a wooden, dowel-type roller, probably French style, because the taper appeals to my logical/analytical side.

I'll post an update in a few weeks on my progress with crust making. Or, sooner if I need advice! (prob'ly)

xoxo

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