Butcher Block Care
Can anyone recommend the best way to care for my new (used/new-to-me) butcher block? I had it lightly sanded down and now I'd like to apply the right oil. I heard mineral oil & beeswax is the way to go. But anyone have any experience with John Boos Mystery Butcher Block Oil? I kind of like that it's this reliable all-in-one product. I just want to make sure it's as reliable as they suggest. Thanks!
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12 Comments:
I've never heard of Boos Mystery Butcher Block Oil. I use straight up mineral oil on mine and try to reoil it once a month, thought I'm not very diligent about it. Curious to see what others say. Thanks, Potluckcraft.
Kelly
Kelly Spitzer at 6:54PM on 12/03/07
I have a butcher block island as well as several cutting boards. Boos is all I ever use - whenever one appears dry (at least once a month), I'll get out the Mystery Oil and check and treat. I trust them that it's food safe and it does a good job, without making the wood sticky. It's best used warm (I place it in a glass of hot water for a few minutes, then shake it well) and I prefer to apply with paper towels. It is flammable and I don't want oil soaked rags around. You let it sit for 5 minutes, then wipe off any excess. I always have an extra bottle because I don't want to run out and ruin my boards. I'm curious to see what others have to say, as well.
PerkyMac at 7:38PM on 12/03/07
I'm really hard on my butcher block, so I bought a really good, heavy one. I scrub it frequently with dishsoap and running hot water. I scour it with salt or baking soda if it's got gunk that won't come off with just the soap and water. Then I wipe it with vinegar to disinfect. I keep a separate board exclusively for raw meat products.
I also periodically oil it with plain food-grade mineral oil. How do you know if it's food grade? Get a big bottle of the kind that's sold as a laxative. Can't see buying expensive specialty products when the cheap stuff works great.
LoCo at 8:14PM on 12/03/07
I use the mystery oil on my butcher block countertop (bally block end cut dove tailed 4.5 inches thick) I recommend it highly and read and follow the directions. I use water to tidy up but always wipe it off with a soft cloth.
Every now and then I disinfect with salt and water in a paste with a sponge. I do not cut meat on my butcher block I use plastic cutting boards for that. We use Bally Block here. It's local and very good.
JerzeeTomato at 8:33PM on 12/03/07
I had a huge butcher block top prep table with a football shaped overhead pot rack that I lost in a custody battle. I used to treat the whole top with a weak bleach solution, wipe off the bleach, pass a damp paper towel over the whole thing, then dry. Apply mineral oil, a little bit thicker on the heavily used spots, then cover the entire top of the table with plastic wrap and leave it overnight. Next morning, seriously rub the entire table top with paper towels until the oil is almost imperceptible. This replenishes the moisture lost in cleaning the board. The bleach neutralizes any "nasties" that take up residence on your board.
therealchiffonade at 4:55AM on 12/04/07
Thank you, everyone, for your helpful advice. My plan is to buy the Boos and try the baking soda or bleach solutions when needed.
Potluckcraft at 12:54PM on 12/04/07
Hello- if you are still there, you can also try Howard Butcher Block Conditioner. It has food-grade mineral oil, vitamin E, beeswax and carnauba wax - GOOD LUCK!
jlosquared at 1:16PM on 12/04/07
Public Service Announcement:
I researched this a while back. Apparently, bleach is neutralized by the organic compounds in wood, so it's lousy for disinfecting wood, even at full strength. It's great for removing tough stains, but that's about it.
I've seen several studies which found that scrubbing the board under hot running water is sufficient to remove more than 99% of the dangerous microbes (e. coli was used for testing). Wiping with dilute white vinegar is equally effective, is non-toxic, and does not leave a residual odor or flavor.
LoCo at 2:14PM on 12/04/07
Apparently, bleach is neutralized by the organic compounds in wood, so it's lousy for disinfecting wood...
Wow. I'm so glad I read these boards and keep up on this stuff. Thanks for the info! I learned years ago from the NYT that poly boards are not all they're cracked up to be in the way of germs. (I felt strangely vindicated as I prefer wood anyway...neener, neener!)
I found out that searing does not "seal in the juices" as we'd all been taught. Mushrooms don't absorb enough water to warrant not washing them. (Where do they grow? On rotted wood! Wash them!)
Now I'm learning that bleach falls short on wooden boards. We'd always been taught that bleach was the great salmonellacide. Ugh.
chiff0nade at 12:17PM on 12/05/07
35 years ago when I bought my first kitchen butcher block table from JD Brauner in NYC, they told me to use linseed oil. That table is currently in my son's condo, and it still looks good. I rest my case.
Mich23 at 3:30PM on 12/05/07
That's great to know about the bleach. I'll stick to hot water and vinegar. Thanks!
Potluckcraft at 11:53AM on 12/07/07
I suggest a product called Emmet's Elixir. The ingredients seem to be Mineral oil, Bees Wax and Rosemary and Lemon oil. The information on the web page say it is NSF certified. NSF are the people who make sure product for commercial foodservice use are safe so that's that.
Anyway the rosemary and lemon oil are naturally anti-microbial so along with conditioning your board or countertop it also gives an added layer of protection.
I use it on all my wood cutting boards and they are doing great...and they smell good.
Butch at 12:03PM on 12/18/07