Why the hostility toward restricted diets?
The recent thread about dinner guests unearthed more of the hostility toward those with restricted diets (especially vegans) that I've noticed frequently on Serious Eats. While some vegans/vegetarians are aggressive or political, most are making a personal choice they don't impose on others. Those of you who deride vegans/vegetarians in your posts-why? Have you had specific negative experiences with veg folks? Vegans/vegetarians - how much do you encounter this in your daily lives?
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45 Comments:
I don't believe the hostility is anything more than the feeling I get when I have one very fussy guest who can't/won/t eat so many things that it makes planning the dinner more difficult than when I'm able to prepare what the majority enjoys. Vegans, in my experience, are the biggest downers. I've heard one say she didn't eat anything with a face and another that she wouldn't eat anything that casts a shadow. I think she was kidding. Eventually the non-face-eater explained that, for her, eating was just a sustenance thing. As long as I had grazing matter on hand I shouldn't worry about her; she'd "survive". Since then, I deal with it but still prefer the company of face-eaters.
grampart at 12:19PM on 09/30/07
I agree with producestories concerned curiousity. I'm a meat and dairy lovin' cook but I try to a) find out food allergies/preferences and b) try to accommodate. I think of it as an opportunity to learn and try something new.
I threw a close-to-authentic luau this year. The way I grew up, we had luaus that incorporated some other ethnic dishes (Japanese, Chinese and Korean) so there were some veggie choices for the non-meat eaters. But I warned my veg guests that it was going to be a meat fest. I didn't alter my menu for them in this case. I just let them know what would be served.
For a group of what seems like in many ways open-minded people, it was surprising to me too to hear so many strident comments. To each his own.
(And really, the question posed was whether you should inform your host of food preferences/allergies. Absolutely. If you have a real aversion to something and want to avoid discussion or judgement, you might try what a friend of mine does and just tell people you're allergic.)
jtakasaki at 12:21PM on 09/30/07
I was also very taken aback by the open hostility towards vegans and others with restricted diets. I have had a restricted diet of some kind all my life, because of some tricky health issues. I was a vegan for a long time, and in the years since I have tinkered with my diet to try and find a good balance that allows me to be well on a daily basis. Now I eat fish, but no meat or poultry and only very limited dairy (no milk or cheese, but some yogurt). I also don't eat most forms of wheat. Sometimes I stray from these guildelines, either for the sake of politeness or self-indulgence, but I always pay a hefty price in the days following.
Even with all of these restrictions, I have never encountered any hostility or inflexibility among my friends, only acceptance and, when things have been bad, concern. I live with an omnivore, who is absolutely supportive of me, and we love to cook together every day. When he wants to eat meat he eats it and I have no problem with that, and when I eat any of the miriad of things that he finds unappealing (nut butters, nutritional yeast, rice milk, chickpea flour) he's fine with that too.
I'm sure there are people on restricted diets who are obnoxious about it, but that's about them, not the diet. I think it's rude to criticise what other people eat, whether you're a vegan or an omnivore, and I can't imagine why anyone would feel that they had a right to personally take issue with someone else's dietary choices. Obviously you don't have to cook for someone if you don't want to, but if it's your friend I don't see why you wouldn't want to work with them to come up with a solution for how to share a nice meal together, as opposed to dismissing them outright because you 'disagree' with their dietary regime. That just smacks of judgement, which is not what friendship is about.
caley at 12:53PM on 09/30/07
I believe that some of the more militant Vegans and Vegetarians have given us a bad rap. I know personally, if I'm in a restaurant or at a dinner party, I will politely let them know that I don't eat meat or otherwise, and often I will make a vegan dish to contribute. I don't feel like Vegans should be preachy or deride others for thier food preferences. It's rude and frankly immature. Afterall, I chose to stop eating meat, they did not. And it's okay that way.
StudentStomach at 1:17PM on 09/30/07
I have had some bad encounters with vegans, and with one in particular who wanted a separate set of cookware (or at least knives and cutting boards, which was where the conversation began) used for the vegan food, cookware which had never touched meat. (I do use separate cutting mats for meats and vegetables, but I can't guarantee that my veg mat has never touched meat, and certainly my knives have touched it. And, of course, I wash everything between uses and different products.)
I don't mind accommodating ovo-lacto vegetarians, and even enjoy it, but I have philosophical issues with veganism, and won't go out of my way to accommodate it most of the time, nor will I guarantee that anything I cook is vegan. I will, however, detail exactly what's in my vegetarian dishes, and let them make up their own minds as to what they'll eat; I usually have something they're okay with. I don't consider it to be hostility on my part, just something I decline to make. I don't prepare guaranteed-kosher or halal food, either.
I'm happy to accommodate food allergies to the best of my abilities. And I always, always ask about any allergies or dietary restrictions.
thepictsie at 3:37PM on 09/30/07
I don't see hostility, I see choices. Hostility as defined as opposition or resistance to an idea. Yes one could say that. I make plenty of things for guests that I do not like/will not eat. Flourless chocolate torte mostly everyone loves (a South Beach diet staple) and I hate it. To me its bitter and too chocolately. Also aparagus, I hate it. But I cook it and set it in my antipasto for everyone for every occasion because they love it.
What I do not like is someone (and this happened in a previous thread) telling me oh you cannot eat meat, you should stop eating meat, you should eat less meat. I laughed at that. I am never telling anyone what they can and cannot eat. Eat whatever turns you on, pay for it and make it in your own house.If I do not want to cook your food for you that is my personal choice and that is my right. Leave my food and my choices alone.
You do not have any idea what someone else's dietary restrictions are. I have a hereditary anemic disease. I eat protein to combat it and I eat a lot of rare meat. It helps me feel better. What helps you feel better may not be the same. I would never deny someone what they chose to eat BUT if I have to cook it, I may not accommodate you.
Everyone has things they do not eat or do not like. I personally do not eat things on the deuteronomy/leviticus list. I do eat pork though. I just believe (without living kosher) that some things you just should not eat. My belief not yours and I certainly say if gator meat turns you on go ahead and eat it. But you will never see me stand on a soap box and preach about it because it is not my issue nor can I tell someone what to eat.
Certain persons (I am not going to even classify them with labels such as vegans or vegetarians) want to tell you what to eat, what to do and how to live your life and I am extremely opposed to that.
Serious Eats is a food forum (I have said this before too) and we talk about good things to eat. We do not talk about what we should not eat. That talk does not belong here.
JerzeeTomato at 6:10PM on 09/30/07
We all take our food pretty seriously. That is, food as itself and as a medium for a shared experience. And within us, we have different convictions that we can probably accept amongst each other. It's hard though, when you get lots of people that you meet who don't care so much about food the same way, and they either think of it as sustenance (only in passing) or a statement (the sub-category of militant eaters of any kind). But I think that here we are able to respect each other, since SE is so diverse - that is what we like about it, right?
Littlebluesiren at 11:43PM on 09/30/07
Actually, I think that the concept of food-as-shared-experience is part of why some foodies might be less than happy about cooking for vegetarians/vegans: if not everyone at the table is sharing the same food, then they aren't sharing the same experience.
thepictsie at 2:28AM on 10/01/07
I like accommodating vegetarian friends and people with health and allergy related dietary restrictions. It's kinda my way to tell them that I care and that I like to think about them and their needs. Plus, it gives me variety in cooking and the food I eat, too, since I don't usually make wholly separate menus for vegetarians and meat-eaters. If there's a vegetarian in the group, either I'll make something they can eat, but its not something that other people shouldn't partake in, it'll definitely be incorporated into the menu as a whole.
It doesn't seem that SE has any real vendetta against vegetarians or vegans as a group, but rather that they can get irritated by overly and unnecessarily finicky people that can become an inconsiderate hassle to others, especially hosts. It's just bad manners.
I think overly finicky carnivores are clumped into the group as well!
Thankfully I've never run into anyone that would be snooty over good food made with care by their hosts.
fuuchan at 4:06AM on 10/01/07
I am vegan and i have never told people personally that they shouldn't eat meat. I have said that people, as a whole civilization, eat too much meat, and i recommend that people include more vegetables in their meals as an alternative, not as an order.
I have no objection to people eating meat. I just find it irksome when people think that veganism is a form of deprivation.
choc_puddin at 5:58AM on 10/01/07
From the other side, I can recall feeling irritated with friends who were on the atkins diet. It can be frustrating to go out for dinner with someone whose ideal meal is a bacon cheeseburger without the bun or the potatoes.
caley at 8:18AM on 10/01/07
I agree with pictsie, food is a shared experience, people come over to your house for dinner because you want to share a fun and enjoyable evening not one that is strenuous and stressful because one or a few people need to have their own set of rules, food, etc. It's like having to cook for kids separately at every meal, at some point the parents are going to say enough and make them eat what everyone else is eating. I don't have a problem with vegetarians as I find most of them eat something that falls under my food umbrella but vegan's who do it by choice rather than for health issues i have problems with.
kitchenlove at 9:27AM on 10/01/07
I think though, as a vegetarian (for health reasons - my body can't process certain fats), I feel like a burden to hosts. I never make any qualms about restaurants, trying to find something that fits my restrictions. I also tell hosts not to go out of their way to make any special effort, that I can always find something to eat.
However, it seems to me that people try to convert me (when they don't realize it is for health reasons) and make me feel inferior and a blight on society for not eating meat. I think the badgering can work both ways, perhaps people just don't realize it when they happen to be the one doing the badgering.
For me vegetarianism has created more creativity for me in the kitchen. Not limited by mushroom risotto or grilled vegetables, I have made creative and unique meat free meals for years now as I would probably perish if that were the only two things I could eat. When I throw a dinner party I always do cook some sort of meat/fish entry for others as well. I think the shared experience in cooking doesn't necessarily have to come from eating the exact same thing, but to understanding and appreciating the creativity and work that went into creating the meal.
souldawg at 11:32AM on 10/01/07
Having Atkinsed seriously as part of a closely-supervised medical school study, I can only say that a bacon cheeseburger without bun or potatoes doesn't frustrate you nearly as much as it probably does the dieter, Caley. A sanctimonious attitude on the part of either side is the problem. For me, it worked well (it was a slightly modified Atkins), since I'm a carnivore at heart, but it's unpleasant to go to a good restaurant and have to skip most first courses except maybe pate (without bread, of course) and desserts.
lemons at 1:51PM on 10/01/07
I was reading an interview with Valentino, the designer. They were discussing his lavish parties. The interviewer asked how he dealt with difficult guests, and he answered "I don't invite them". Amen
elaine at 4:06PM on 10/01/07
I don't have hostility toward special diets as much as when the diner doesn't warn me and starts dissecting my food or worse; sits at the table and eats nothing. I'd much rather be warned so I can make appropriate food for everyone at my table. (Even if it's Atkins.)
chiff0nade at 4:48PM on 10/01/07
"I can recall feeling irritated with friends who were on the atkins diet. It can be frustrating to go out for dinner with someone whose ideal meal is a bacon cheeseburger without the bun or the potatoes."
See, this is what I don't get. Why should it "frustrate" you whether I choose to eat something or not? It's one thing if you're cooking for people who announce (or, even better, don't announce...until the serving dish is on the table and the rubber has hit the road) that they don't eat X and Y and Z. But if you're in a restaurant, why on earth should you care whether I eat the bun with my burger? I can see being mortified if I make a big pain in the ass of myself with the server -- "Please make sure that there is no sugar in the salad dressing. And no honey. Or maple syrup. No honey mustard, either. And your mayonnaise, is it sugarless? Do you think the kitchen could make me some without sugar?" -- but barring that, if all I'm doing is eating my burger with a knife and fork, I am mystified as to how this is a valid cause for frustration on your part.
To be honest -- and to open a big ole can of worms -- it reminds me strongly of people who get all upset about what other people are doing in the bedroom and who they're doing it with. My body, my mouth, my dinner -- how does any of this concern you?
maggiesara at 5:59PM on 10/01/07
I'm with you, maggiesara...and I actually thought of the same bedroom analogy earlier today when I was thinking about this question.
The consensus here does seem to be that alternative dietary choices aren't the problem - the problem is discourteous behavior, whether it's to a dinner host, a server at a restaurant, or one's meal companions. Unfortunately, many people (on SE and elsewhere) too-easily conflate the dietary choices with the behavior, and assume that, e.g., all vegans are difficult and whiny, or all Atkins dieters are fastidious and self-centered. I've known many of both, and neither generalization is true.
Of course, there are larger political questions concerning the national diet (including its ratio of processed foods to fresh, or meat to vegetables and grains as well as e.g. farming methods). Just as what type of car (if any) someone drives affects the world in which we all live, so does one's diet, and neither can be considered an entirely apolitical choice. But in general, it seems best to keep these discussions away from the dinner table.
producestories at 7:34PM on 10/01/07
I used to contribute to meals at a non-profit org where there were vegetarians. I looked at it as a new way of experiencing cooking. I found these particular vegetarians to be very appreciative of my efforts. There were however people involved who didn't wish to accomidate them and were not shy about it. Maybe it's another one of those subjects like polotics and religon, some people just can't talk about them rationaly.
peticook at 3:23AM on 10/02/07
Maggiesara, my comment was certainly not intended to be critical of Atkins or those who follow it. It is simply that there has been a lot of animosity towards vegans, and I was trying to point out that the other exteme can seem a bit... extreme... from the other side as well. I had a friend who was following Atkins and was only ever willing to meet me for dinner in a local steakhouse. That was frustrating to me as a lactose-free pescatarian, although of course when I've had Atkinsers over for dinner I've been more than happy to make something that we both can share. I absolutely think that people should make whatever dietary choices they want, as I said in my first comment. I grew up vegetarian, my partner grew up eating whale meat and puffin and reindeer, so dietary tolerance is practiced daily in our household. I just think that it is through compromise with friends that we are able to reach accross these restrictions to achieve a food-based social life, and the compromise goes in both directions, on the part of both vegans and strict Atkinsers and everyone in between.
caley at 6:59AM on 10/02/07
Actually, I don't follow Atkins, or any other dietary regime that proscribes particular groups of food. But it seems to me that if you're largely vegetarian, and you have a friend who will meet with you only in steakhouses, what we're dealing with is not someone on a restricted diet, but an inconsiderate friend.
You know, this all seems like such a no-brainer to me. If you're cooking for people and you know some of them follow restricted diets of some sort, make sure to prepare some stuff that they can eat (and make it enough to represent a meal). If that throws your exquisitely constructed and balanced menu out of whack, too bad: Hospitality trumps Escoffier. Similarly, if you're a guest on a restricted diet, make your needs known ahead of time, eat what you can of what's on offer, and remember you can always get a pizza later: Graciousness trumps your desire for the most delicious meal possible.
Further, if you're the host in this situation, do not, under any circumstances, call attention to the fact that Rupert is eating only salad and potatoes, or only salad and steak: Commenting on other people's dietary choices is rude, and making your guests uncomfortable is worse than that. Similarly, if you are Rupert, and you are rendered vaguely nauseous by the fact that others at the table are chewing on dead flush, tough noogies. Commenting on other people's dietary choices is rude, and repaying your host's hospitality by making the other guests uncomfortable is worse than that.
maggiesara at 10:15AM on 10/02/07
Probably part of the hostility towards restricted diets is the cook's frustration to accommodate. For example, for a year, I was pesco-vegetarian due to health issues. My husband, a happy omnivore and the family cook (he hates it when I try to cook separate meals), tried to combat this by using tofu as though it were beef or pork. I sadly say that I can no longer tolerate tofu because of his efforts. He didn't bother looking up new recipes from vegan or vegetarian websites, just winged it and probably did the tofu injustice in the end. I'm sure a lot of this is just getting over ignorance over diets and thinking beyond the usual composition of the dinner plate.
Jikuu at 11:01AM on 10/02/07
I actually think this is a topic that could use further research. The media's popular "bad boy" chefs routinely bash vegans and vegetarians - in a Salon interview, Anthony Bourdain called veganism "antihuman," and Gordon Ramsey, on an episode of Kitchen Nightmares, said that vegetarians have no palates. And let's not even start on Nina Planck's infamous NYTimes op-ed piece . . . .
Why hate the vegetable-lovers? Do carnivores hate vegetarian ethics? Do they simply suppose them simple-minded, close-minded, or rude?
As a pescetarian-mostly-vegetarian with lactose issues, I am constantly called upon to defend my diet. People learn that I don't eat chicken, beef, or pork, and the first question they ask is, "What do you eat?" And then they tell me everthing that *they* don't eat - ethnic foods, fish, and all non-tomato vegetables commonly top the list.
So I think the close-mindedness, and rudeness, exists on every level. Still, I wonder why vegan and vegetarians get such a bad rap? Is it PETA's moralizing (let's call them vegan fundamentalists), or that veganism run counter to traditional American food beliefs (you need protein from meat, calcium from dairy, meat-and-two-veg dinners)?
I'd love to hear other's thoughts!
KarynMC at 11:57AM on 10/02/07
unless your feet are underneath my table, i don't care what you eat...i also don't care what you'd rather be doing, what you "heart",or what your other car is.
olddad at 12:16PM on 10/02/07
KarynMC-
Chefs are, by definition, sensualists. Often sensualists in a limited fashion, but sensualists nonetheless. They value the sensations associated with eating above nearly all things. It's part of what makes them chefs. Because sensation is valued so highly, it is in a sense wrong to many chefs and culinarians to refuse certain sensations, certain foods, on any basis other than actual allergy or intolerance (and those have to be pretty severe to justify it -- if it's not going to leave you vomiting, broken out in hives, hospitalized or dead, you have to try it anyway). Heck, I take crap in culinary school for not eating avocado, which WILL leave me vomiting. But in general, at school, if one is offered a new ingredient to try, one had better try it. In the culinary world, this is an actual moral imperative. It may not make sense to you, but then moral reasons for eating meat don't make a lot of sense to me, either. Just accept that it's true, as I accept that some people have moral reasons which seem good to them for veganism.
Yes, like many moral dictums, this one can make some of those who labor under it intolerant of the morals of others -- much as some vegans are intolerant of omnivores. But you asked why, and there it is. It's not a matter of "hating" vegetarian ethics -- a somewhat rude suggestion, I think, and akin to the claims of some Christians that the left wing hates them for their morals -- it's a matter of having a different set of ethics which is in direct opposition. And yes, by these culinary values, and from this viewpoint, vegetarians often do seem close-minded and rude, and some of the arguments made by some vegetarians and vegans do seem simple-minded (such as: "I don't eat anything that was alive," or "...cast a shadow," or "The human body isn't designed to digest meat," all of which are factually incorrect; plants are alive and they cast shadows, and if the human body wasn't designed to digest meat then it would be incapable of doing so, as it is incapable of digesting cellulose).
FWIW, I do not hold that people are generally require to taste anything that comes their way, nor do I require everyone around me to hold to my particular ethical choices.
thepictsie at 3:53PM on 10/02/07
I'm not on (nor do I believe in) Atkins - but I do watch what I eat. I read a menu thoroughly and if there's a chance the dish does NOT serve my dietary needs, I move on to something else. Is it worth it for me to have two mouthfuls of cheesy potatoes or an entire side of steamed veggies? (...After I have made clear to the waitperson I don't want them swimming in butter.) I do my best to choose a meal that needs little or no modification so as to streamline the ordering process and not be a PITA so beautifully described above by maggiesara ("And your mayonnaise, is it sugarless?")
Here's another "plate to spin." I spend 7 minutes thoroughly reading the menu, specifically to choose a dish that is not fried. I'm with a party of about 12. I finally ask the waitperson if there is a way to get a specific fish but not deep fried as it appears everywhere on the menu. Waitperson says no, which tells me the fish is purchased pre-breaded, so I bail on that. I see Fish Tacos. They do not have "fried" in the description...I was thrilled.
I order the fish tacos. As the rest of the table is presented with their food, a plate of fish tacos is put before me. THE FISH IS FRIED, then cut into strips, then placed in soft tortillas. I was livid. I really didn't want to cause a scene so I peeled away the fried coating and ate whatever little fillet remained.
When the waitperson came to clear the dishes, I said, "NO WHERE on this menu does it say 'fried' relating to the fish tacos." The idiot looked at me with a blank expression and said, "Oh."
Did my line of questioning not clue her in to the fact that I was trying to stay away from fried food? Did she not think it was worth mentioning to me that although not mentioned on the menu, the fish tacos did indeed include fried fish?
Not all waitstaff are this clueless. Recently at Cheddar's a waitperson told me the broccoli was usually served with butter but she would instruct the kitchen to skip the butter. I was grateful for her astute observation that I was being conscious of my food intake - and it was further displayed in my tip.
chiff0nade at 10:59AM on 10/03/07
Most of what I would say has been mentioned above (I'm in agreement with thepictsie). But, I do object to being labeled as a "carnivore" by those who do not eat meat. It's so inaccurate. I find that term used quite often and it is intended to be insulting and judgmental. Humans are omnivores whether they choose to eat meat or not.
KateC at 7:34PM on 10/03/07
You know what it is? It's the entitlement that can be annoying (not all vegetarians are like that, I know).
When's the last time a vegetarian accomodated a meat-eater by serving meat at his or her party? When vegetarians get annoyed if a restaurant doesn't have veg options, I should be able to get annoyed that vegetarian restaurants don't have meat options. But, I don't. You won't find me requesting meat at your veggie burger festival, but you will find vegetarians demanding vegetarian options at a hamburger party. That is the annoying part.
Myszka at 11:32PM on 10/03/07
Perhaps I should have said vegan "ethics," or "vegan moralizing" - I was thinking that omnivores might feel self-conscious eating with vegetarians, who they might suppose judgmental. And no one wants to be considered a murderer by their tablemate (please keep in mind, however, that many people adopt plant-based lifestyles for reasons other than faces and shadows).
I used "carnivore" glibly - of course humans are not carnivorous.
I guess what I was trying to understand is why vegans/vegetarians seem to be especial targets of culinary disdain when so many other dietary restrictions exist (kosher, halal, Hindu vegetarianism, Atkins, picky-eaterism). If a man traveling in Italy refuses a lasagna for its carbs or its combination of meat and cheese, is he more or less rude than a vegetarian refusing it for its meat? Does vegetarianism or veganism just seem too far out of the mainstream?
In any case, I think we can all agree that we have the right to make our own food choices.
KarynMC at 6:35AM on 10/04/07
I'd say that between thepictsie and myszka you have your answer.
bobbob at 12:55PM on 10/04/07
People who keep kosher and halal are unlikely to walk into a high-end restaurant that isn't itself kosher or halal; they also don't tend to try to tell other people that they should keep kosher or halal. People on diets, even Atkins, are likely to suspend their diets for the night if they go into an upscale restaurant; in addition, Atkins is very obviously a fad diet, and most chefs will be temporarily annoyed by them, but know that they will pass. Picky eaters are never liked by chefs. And Hindu vegetarians are still vegetarians and still come in under that umbrella. Chefs don't like it when people don't eat their food as it is prepared. Period. But they are more likely to be vocal about dietary choices when the people who make those choices are more vocal, especially in or around their restaurants.
You seem to have jumped from chefs, who you were talking about in your earlier comment, to fellow diners. I'm just talking about chefs and cooks here -- the professionals preparing food for sale in high-end restaurants, and why many of them do disdain vegetarianism. But certainly I don't personally break bread with someone who thinks I'm a murderer.
Actually, I think vegetarianism and veganism come in for more criticism because they are MORE mainstream than kosher or halal. More people are doing it, or at least more people are talking about it, so more people know about it, so they're more likely to make noise about it. Also because the kinds of people who are going to complain about others' religion are more bothered about worship than food, and nobody else wants to criticize another's religion.
Actually, no, not everyone DOES agree that everyone gets to make their own food choices. Some people are trying to legislate food choices. Banning foie gras, or transfats, or cupcakes in school. And some vegans and vegetarians would like to ban eating meat.
And yes, I know very well that not all vegetarians or vegans state such asinine reasons for their choices. That's why I used the word "some". But that doesn't make those reasons less asinine.
thepictsie at 4:23PM on 10/04/07
Somewhat related: I'm putting together a Chinese banquet for a group of 15, one of whom does not eat any meat or poultry (though she will eat fish). Selecting the dishes and organizing the courses has been trickier than I had expected, because of the need to make sure that in every course there is at least one substantial item -- a combo of steamed rice and waterchestnut salad doesn't count -- that can accommodate my pescatorian friend's needs. The real glitch came about with the Peking duck, which I wanted to include partly because this restaurant does it very well, and partly because it's a festive dish that most poultry-eaters love and rarely get. But the restaurant typically presents the duck as its own course, and I didn't want the lone vegetarian sitting there with an empty plate. Eventually, I persuaded the restaurant to serve the duck along with vegetable-and-pine-nut lettuce "wraps," so there will be something nice for the Veggie to eat, and it will all be in the mode of hand-held sandwiches. Not really a big deal. However, the husband of one of the guests (it's essentially a business party) is a full-on vegetarian, no fish, and I have pretty much decided not to invite spouses -- partly because space starts to become problematic, but really because trying to accommodate his needs, in a banquet context (where I have to pay for 15 portions of tofu even if he's the only one likely to eat it AND forgo the crispy sea bass that everybody else would probably love) was a bigger headache than I was willing to take on.
All of which makes me think that the "hostility" with regard to restricted diets has in part to do with requiring the majority to accommodate the needs of a minority. If I own a restaurant, I have the resources -- the money, the staff, the storage space, etc. -- to offer X number of entrees per night. I know that the majority of my customers are likely to order meat, fish, or poultry. If I replace one of my MFP items with a vegetarian offering, to accommodate the relatively small percentage of my customers who are vegetarians, I reduce my potential for profit (especially because I am probably compelled to charge relatively little for the vegetarian entree, even though it may be considerably more labor-intensive than the steak or roast-chicken-breast dishes).
This holds true for home cooks as well. Say I've invited a bunch of people for dinner, and one of them eats no meat. Do I prepare a vegetarian meal for everyone, even though the majority of the guests would prefer to meat or fish or poultry? Do I strain my resources -- my time, my grocery budget -- so that I can provide beef stew for the majority and a vegetable casserole for the lone Veggie? As it happens, this problem doesn't really concern me -- I cook a lot of Asian food, and making a largely vegetarian meal, with some meat or fish elements, is very easy in that context. But I can see how it would be a real source of irritation.
I certainly don't mean to dump on vegetarians here -- the "minority" in this instance could be someone on any kind of restricted regime, whether it's low-carb or low-fat or low-salt or Kosher or what have you.
maggiesara at 6:38PM on 10/04/07
I'm a vegan (for about 6 years now), and I've experienced hostility from others toward my diet from time to time. I've found that if I don't make a big deal about my food choices, people will back off. I'm not "militant," but I will share a great vegan recipe. What I put into my body, just like any book I read, movie I watch, or exercise I do, is ultimately up to me!
altosaxchica at 10:25PM on 10/04/07
The attitudes espoused above about how difficult it is to accommodate vegetarians are why I rarely accept dinner invitations; I hate the idea of people altering their menus and serving other than what they'd prefer because of my dietary choices. I know a lot of folks on alternative diets who feel the same way - it's just not worth inconveniencing someone who wasn't already planning to make a vegetarian meal.
But Myszka, I don't understand why a vegetarian restaurant should have meat options - the point of vegetarian restaurants is that they don't serve meat, when 99% of restaurants out there do. Likewise, it's unreasonable to expect a vegetarian to "accommodate" meat eaters by serving meat when they have non-vegetarian guests - meat eaters can eat non-meat dishes that vegetarians can eat, so the comparison isn't quite fair.
No matter who has it, a sense of entitlement is infuriating, but it's important that we don't assume people have this attitude just because they follow a diet whose motives we personally can't understand.
producestories at 10:27PM on 10/04/07
My wife is allergic to chicken, citrus, alcohol, and to a small degree tomatoes. Can it sometimes be a drag? Yes. But I do think that it does lead to me trying new recipes (that I normally wouldn't have tried) or modifying existing ones to accomodate her.
As far as vegetarians and vegans go, the few I know don't really make a huge deal about it. They steer their way through a meal the best they can and get on with it. As for the militants? I've not met one, and hope not to.
eatdrinkandbemerry at 11:54PM on 10/04/07
A few reasons I get annoyed:
I'm already tired and stressed. I don't need to worry about prepping specific dishes for specific people. Come and eat. I'm not cooking for 4 year olds.
The sudden onslaught of "sensitivities" makes them feel bogus. How come, growing up, nobody was doubled over in pain from dairy, wheat, fish, tomatoes, blah blah? I doubt most sensitivities and actually think that most should be classified as "preferences." Not all -- most.
Entitlement (myszka nailed it), a proclivity to pontificate about why they eat what they eat, and an subtle hint of disdain for anyone who disagrees.
PETA and other action groups, for their over-the-top, animals-first, people-second attitude. My viewpoint is, go lay naked where a lion can find you -- animals will come first, and you'll assume your right position in the food chain. Why not expend all that vitriol saving abused children or helping the homeless?
All of this makes me envision the following scenario. Say I host a dinner party with nothing but hamburgers. The Atkinser peels away the bun like it's a turd. The waste-not "eat local" fanatic is tempted, but wonders if they sesame seeds were grown around the corner. The vegan shuns it, due to the eggs. The gluten-free simply turns up the nose. The basic dieter reaches for 3 tbl. of mayo and declares he cannot indulge in bread. Another has a "sensitivity" to yeast.
And many millions of kids crawl across glass to get it.
Get over yourselves.
tmj529 at 12:37AM on 10/05/07
Maggiesara-
Actually, depending on the market a restaurant is in, vegetarian dishes can be extremely profitable. I'm in culinary school, and I just finished a big project in which we planned out an entire restaurant, menu, layout, schedule, business plan, the works. I insisted on having several vegetarian items because Seattle has a big vegetarian community. They consistently had a very high profit margin (certainly higher than the meat dishes), were popular choices even among the omnivores polled, and weren't any more trouble to prepare than anything else.
thepictsie at 1:54AM on 10/05/07
tmj529, I agree that it's strange how dietary sensitivities seem to have escalated over the past few decades. From what I've read about celiac disease (no wheat/gluten) is that in the past, it was severely under-diagnosed, because its symptoms can be similar to the symptoms for a lot of problems, like depression or chronic fatigue syndrome, even migraines. Nut allergies are much more common than they were even a decade ago, which is why so many schools don't allow kids to have nuts or nut products in their packed lunches these days - anaphylactic shock is hard to argue with. And a lot of people become more sensitive to lactose as they age.
Disdain for others' choices and a sense of entitlement are extremely annoying, no matter if we're talking about the religious right or those on restricted diets. But equating the actions of PETA with the actions of those who choose not to eat animals for a variety of reasons, is unfair - PETA is a small group whose tactics and philosophy are offensive to a lot of people, including many vegetarians and vegans (like this one).
As far as "pontificating" - that is one point that strikes close to home for me. If I had a back ailment which I was able to alleviate with a combination of, say, yoga and acupuncture, I wouldn't think twice about suggesting this regimen to a friend with a similar ailment. But I bite my tongue if a friend mentions struggling with problems similar to those I've alleviated for myself with dietary changes. People are so sensitive about their diets, and so quick to feel judged when different choices are discussed (and, by extension, might chalk up a friendly suggestion as "typical vegetarian proselytizing"), that it's just not worth the discussion. I think that's a shame, but I've noticed it even among my close friends, with whom I would freely discuss, e.g., money or sex. Food is in a class of its own in this regard.
producestories at 8:49AM on 10/05/07
Wow, things just got brutal for the vegetarians amongst us.
@ Myszka Actually I do go out of my way to accomodate everyone. Call that trying to be thoughtful for those times people haven't been thoughtful for me. As Producestories noted there are many reasons for dietary changes and not everyone pontificates.
I have a hard time with proteins and fats being processed. I have friends with Celiac's. Friends with Chrone's. What do you do, you be a polite host and accomodate what they can eat without making them feel like a leper.
That's the fun part of cooking. It's not a burden. I find it a challenge and interesting to try and create new meals for people. I am overjoyed when non-vegetarians enjoy my attempts at cooking a meat dish. I know dinner parties can be stressful but if you love to cook, why not love the challenge and relish the results, meat, meat-free, wheat free, nut free what have you?
souldawg at 4:55PM on 10/05/07
Re profitability of vegetarian dishes, no question that they're more profitable than meat or poultry dishes when costed on the basis of raw materials. But if you factor in labor, the cost can rise significantly. At a mid-level restaurant, the steak may well arrive already portioned, so it's just a matter of slapping it on the grill. Sprinkle some breadcrumbs on a halved tomato and stick it under the broiler, dish up a portion of the mashed potatoes that accompany half your entrees, and you're done. Chicken breast, salmon fillet...same story.
And then there's the vegetarian risotto. For the sake of convenience, let's assume you bring in your vegetable stock -- which is wasteful as hell, but does save someone endlessly cleaning and trimming the scraps of onion, mushroom, turnip, etc., and reducing it down and down and down until it actually has some body and flavor. Assume something relatively simple -- an asparagus and morel risotto, say. Somebody has to trim and peel all the asparagus, slice it, and par-cook it such that when it's turned into the rice base, the bottoms will be tender but the tips won't be overcooked. And somebody has to clean the morels, which can be sandy little buggers and harbor all kinds of creepy crawlies that no vegetarian (or anyone else, for that matter) is going to want to find on the plate. However, giving the morels a good solid rinse will leave them waterlogged, since they soak up moisture like mad, so you've got to go one at a time, cleaning each one individually. And then there's onion and garlic to mince, never mind that if you've got a halfway decent restaurant you're making the risotto to order, so someone's got to stand there stirring the damn stuff.
And that's for a bog-standard vegetarian entree, with no little zip or wow factor. I recently bought two vegetarian cookbooks that absolutely blow me away -- I can't wait to cook from them (Cafe Paradiso and Cafe Paradiso Seasons, for those playing at home, coming out of a truly incredible veg restaurant in Dublin). These dishes have some major wow factor. But many of them also involve a LOT of trimming and peeling and chopping before anything hits a pan. There's just a lot of labor there, compared with the labor involved in firing a chunk of protein, and labor costs money.
Sure, some protein -- especially if you're going for a wow --is a PITA as well. The person who invents the self-shelling shrimp will win my undying gratitude. But as much as I loathe shelling and deveining shrimp -- and it is just about my least-favorite kitchen chore -- it can't compare with, say, podding and shelling fava beans. Spend an hour on the shrimp, and you've got enough cleaned protein to feed a small platoon. Spend an hour on the fava beans, and you've got enough for maybe three portions, assuming it's a side-dish.
And then, seasonality comes in. Chicken is chicken, in May as in November. But tomatoes are not tomatoes in January, and if I'm putting vegetarian dishes on my menu in the winter -- and I don't live in Fresno -- I have a choice between serving a LOT of cabbage and root-vegetable stews (for which it's tough to get the punters to pay up) and using tasteless, expensive, out-of-season, flown-in-from-Chile produce, which will both piss off the locavore types and, again, send my food costs spiraling up.
And finally, the majority v. minority issue. I've got one incredibly hard-working kitchen porter. I can have him spend his time shelling and deveining shrimp, or peeling fava beans -- he can't do both. How many customers are likely to want the shrimp, if I put it on the menu, v. the number that are going to opt for Favas en Suprise? With finite resources, I have to choose between playing the majority and playing to the minority. As it happens, it makes sense to offer something that the minority can eat, so that mixed parties will be willing to come to my restaurant. But for every "minority" dish I put on my menu, I have to further restrict the number of "majority" offerings, and it becomes a pretty delicate financial balancing act.
Understand, I'm not arguing against restaurants' offering vegetarian dishes; rather, I'm suggesting one reason why the restaurant community, as a whole, may have some hostility toward vegetarians.
On another note -- because hey, it's two in the morning, and I got the keyboard, baby -- I used to have a friend in L.A. who would often have dinner in restaurants with his mother. The two of them would engage in a game I though of, privately, as "Who's More Allergic?" J would look at the menu and say, "I kind of like the idea of the beet salad, if they could make it without the hazelnuts." And his mother would say, "Oh god, beets, I even look at a beet and my blood pressure starts shooting up, I can feel the veins in my forehead starting to pulse." And J would say "Wow, the veins-thing, that's exactly what happened to me when I went to Maggiesara's house and she was cooking apples." And his mother would say, "Please, don't talk to me about apples. I was at your sister's, she gave little Sophie a glass of apple juice, they were in the kitchen, two rooms away, and I started breaking out in hives." And J would say "I used to have the hives-problem, but ever since I started drinking two glasses of pure spirulina-juice every time I went to the bathroom, the hives haven't been a problem. Well, at least, not with whole apples. Applesauce is another story."
And on and on and on. It became very clear that in their family, being a delicate flower conferred some kind of specialness -- everybody must race around making sure that every trace of apple has been wiped away, that nothing with beet-sugar in it or beet juice or pickled beets or maybe just the letter "b" has been anywhere near the house for at least 30 days. And in restaurants, of course, waiters are sent scurrying back and forth to the kitchen to determine whether the vegetarian dumplings have any soy products in them, whether the salad dressing is soured with lemon juice or (horrors!) vinegar ("it's FERMENTED," J explains with terrifying gravity), whether the "Buddha's Stir-Fry" can be prepared "without any nightshade vegetables" in it, etc.
J and his mother are nuts -- and, happily, hardly representative of any community of restricted eaters I can think of. But they do illustrate the extent to which a lot of people use food in ways that have nothing to do with nourishing the body and pleasing the taste buds. And I think that those of us on the outside who get dragged into these scenarios -- waiters, chefs, home cooks whose only sin was in inviting someone over for dinner -- have reason to resent being forced to play a roll in someone else's tedious psychodrama.
maggiesara at 2:21AM on 10/06/07
Er, role, that is. Neither J nor his mother can eat rolls. J goes into anaphylaxis at the merest hint of yeast, and his mother had to be rushed to Cedars the last time she came within 60 yards of gluten. Have I mentioned that they are both extremely slender persons?
maggiesara at 5:02AM on 10/06/07
maggiesara, please don't go on like that...I laughed so hard I nearly hurt myself.
lemons at 10:13AM on 10/06/07
"But they do illustrate the extent to which a lot of people use food in ways that have nothing to do with nourishing the body and pleasing the taste buds."
You have (hilariously) hit the nail on the head, I think, maggiesara. Food seems to bring up more than nourishment and pleasure for most people, because it carries inevitable links to class, body image, ethnic identity, and other issues. Piling dietary restrictions (whether medical or self-chosen) onto the already-extensive list of the cultural work food does can make preparing a meal for others exhausting.
When planning a meal for many people, the host has already gone through long considerations, whether consciously or subconsciously, about how best to satisfy his guests. Depending on their relationships (boss? future in-laws? drinking buddies?), this would include not only making food delicious, but also balancing the cost of ingredients, the guests' supposed cost of the ingredients, the healthfulness of the meal, the cultural meaning of certain dishes (e.g. comfort food vs. "fancy" food, exotic dishes vs. commonplace dishes), ease of serving, ease of eating, and many more.
When someone with a restricted diet comes into the mix (especially if it's last-minute), the balance is upset as the host has to figure out a way to accommodate this person as well as fulfilling all these other considerations. Doing this is annoying and may be the last straw in what has already been a thoughtful and often stressful process.
As a vegetarian (and one who really really hates mushrooms to the extent that they give me nightmares), I just have to recognize, and hope that others with special diets also recognize, the work that has already gone into planning a meal, and not expect to be accommodated. When it's a good friend, obviously things are different, but if it's an invitation from a new acquaintance or a work associate, it's important that those of us on restricted diets don't expect hosts to go to great lengths to meet our needs - since they've already gone to such lengths in the planning of their meal.
On the other hand, regardless of the additional cost and prep time, I think it's good business sense for a restaurant to have at least one vegetarian dish on the menu. Not everyone who eats meat wants it at every meal or even every dinner, and a lighter, vegetarian main dish will appeal to more than just those who don't eat meat.
producestories at 10:57AM on 10/06/07
I wondered about chefs' intolerance, but my family hates my plant-based diet too . . .
I live at home right now. My mother has adopted an all-red-meat diet since I went pescetarian. I feel bad contributing to the decreased health of my family, but there's not much I can do. I offer to cook for them frequently (especially since my mother hates having to cook) - but my mother and brother refuse all ethnic and all meatless meals (my dad likes everything, and gets really, really angry if I don't make enough food to share).
On our last family vacation, my college-age sister threw a temper-tantrum, yes, a temper-tantrum, because the menu at one restaurant did not include chicken. By that, I mean that it had terayaki chicken, which she did not feel like. And she didn't like fish, pork, or beef, except for hamburger, but she didn't feel like hamburger, and next time *she* was picking the restaurant, because if she couldn't eat here, I shouldn't be able to eat somewhere else.
She's also the girl who went to a Vietnamese restaurant - and ordered a strawberry smoothie.
I'm the family member on a "restricted diet" - but I'm used to being flexible - packing snacks, ordering salads sans bacon or baked potatoes, etc. So I too am annoyed by relentlessly closed-minded eaters. But I think there's a distinction between a vegetarian/ vegan/ allergy-related "food restriction," and someone like my sister, who could, but didn't "feel like," eating any of the options on the menu.
I won't lie - I certainly don't understand some food restrictions, and I know that some diets would not work for me, just like I understand that my diet would not work for some other people.
I do get annoyed by people who don't want to try new foods, especially ethnic foods (It seems closed-minded to assume that only Europeans and their descendents, not to mention Kraft Foods, can produce edible meals) - but I guess we all prove a bit crazy and snobby when it comes to food preferences.
KarynMC at 11:13AM on 10/06/07
To be honest, I am fascinated, in a genuinely intellectual fashion, by the vast burden of meaning that food is required, in this country at least, to schlep around. As producestories noted, for example, it's a huge class-signifyer. And Laura Shapiro, in the brilliant "Perfection Salad," talks at length about not only the perceived "femininity" and "masculinity" of food choices (an idea that persists today -- it's a standard joke that all women "love chocolate," and when women are seen as patronizing steakhouses, the "story" rates an entire article in the Times food section) but also, relatedly, about the perceived spirituality of various food choices.
I know that food choices are required to carry a bucketload of meaning in the UK as well -- the Guardian ran a brief but interesting piece, a few months ago, about U and non-U menus -- but I wonder whether this holds true in other cultures. Well, I'm guessing that in India, because vegetarianism has a long association with the Brahmins, food choices are pretty loaded with significance. And actually, I bet that in any post-colonial culture, food can carry a lot of political weight. Hmmmm. Interesting.
maggiesara at 2:47PM on 10/06/07