A tale of 4 NYC restaurants
My girlfriend and I took a little culinary tour of NYC over the past couple of days. We hit up some spots we had been talking about for awhile. We were after a diverse range of foods.
Here is my report from the 4 places we visited... Telly's Taverna in Astoria (http://www.tellystaverna.com/), Gum Fung in Flushing (http://www.yelp.com/biz/mtySr6UXvEgx48Hpy5gDjg), Africa Kine in Harlem (http://www.africakine.com), and Momofuku Ssam (http://www.momofuku.com/).
At Telly's Taverna, we ordered the grilled octopus and the, uh, oh, it doesn't matter. The grilled octopus was fantastic. Tender and succulent, perhaps one of my favorite dishes in recent memory, and the tops for the weekend without question. I believe we ordered a yogurt dip and a fish kebab but it doesn't really matter. The grilled octopus was delicious and that's why I'm going back.
Gum Fung is great for Dim Sum though I've never been elsewhere in Flushing so I have nothing to compare it to. The green vegetables are flavorful and cooked just right, and the crispy pork has long reigned as one of my favorite dishes, the kind I think about when I wake up every morning. The dumplings were good but the soy sauce at Gum Fung was more memorable to me. I'm not sure what that means. For me, my favorite Dim Sum dishes are the non-dumpling ones. I'm not sure what that means either.
Africa Kine was something I've been looking forward to since I arrived in NYC, or rather Senegalese food is. I used to frequent the Ghana Cafe in DC and always enjoyed it. I hadn't eaten West African cuisine since. And I'm not sure I'll go back anytime soon. The best part of this meal for me was the iced ginger drink (no booze at Africa Kine). I had the grilled lamb and it was fine but nothing to rave about. That said, the grilled plantains were very good and the grilled onions that came with the meal were fantastic. I'm not sure I'd rush back for Sengalese food. I guess my heart lies with East Asian cooking and the occassional French/Italian/Sushi spot.
Momofuku Ssam was a place I've long been itching to go since January and it wasn't easy to drag my veg- and fishhead girlfriend to a place that specializes in pork and offal. But eventually I got her there. My first impression is that the restaurants seems unnecessarily pricey. The asparagus with miso butter and poached egg was very good. The miso butter was delicious and the asparagus cooked perfectly. A bit salty on the whole but I enjoyed it. Four pieces of asparagus for $14 seemed a bit hefty to me though. My girlfriend ordered the soft-shelled crab which was nice. Two soft-shelled crabs with a subtle sauce. I went with the veal sweetbread, and I really really enjoyed it. Soft and juicy, with a touch of lime on top, it was wonderful. On the side were a couple of pickled veggies which was a nice addition in between bits of thymus gland. Drinks (very good sake, including an inhouse-carbonated glass of sake) accounted for about 40% of our bill so that was our fault but I was quite hungry as we left and wondered why a small side of veggies or a light carb couldn't accompany the courses. It's a little complaint but I've always been suspicious of overly small plates (though massive plates like you get at Africa Kine are way too much for me). They always seem a bit on the pretentious side but the food was delicious and I'll definitely be back, if nothing else because I like eating offal now and then, and it's great to be in a spot that does it creatively.
Of all the four, I have to say Momofuku Ssam is definitely the spot to go for the unique experience. I love the decor and the music (especially the many songs by The Clash that were played). The food was insanely creative and fun. Order more than an appetizer to share and a main course for yourself. Bring a bit of extra change, chill on the booze, and order more food. You'll enjoy it more. I think that was my main problem... not quite enough food. For a very different experience from Momofuku, go to Telly's Taverna on a Saturday night. It's loud and packed with families. Order the grilled octopus and enjoy.
As for Gum Fung, for my money, I've always enjoyed eating in Flushing compared to Chinatown. The whole experience from the food to walking around the shops seems more relaxed and more interesting.
Africa Kine is interesting if you like Senegalese music videos and massive portions. If you've never had West Africa cuisine, give it a shot but personally, it was the most disappointing of the 4. I really had my hopes up. I guess part of the problem was going on a Sunday night. It never helps to eat in a relatively empty, quiet restaurant. Get the fried plantains with your meal and enjoy. I must say I liked how the lamb was just chopped up with bone and all... made for more interesting eating and reminded me the way they hack chicken up in Vietnam.
As a resident of Brookyn and worker in Manhattan, I must say that I really enjoy eating in Queens. Flushing Chinatown, Greek food in Astoria, the amazing Thai spot in Woodside... 3 of my favorite NY eating experiences. I'm eager to get out there again for Korean Fried Chicken too. For great food and a little less arrogance than you'll find in Manhattan, hit up some of the spots in Queens.
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3 Comments:
Thanks for sharing this! I am adding Telly's and Gum Fung to my "To Eat" list.
Alaina Browne at 6:48PM on 05/23/07
NSW, did the staff ask if you'd been there before? If you answer yes, they usually tell you that you'd need 4-6 dishes to fill up two people. We usually end up spending $80-100 for two people; definitely NOT inexpensive like some publications would like you to believe.
kathryn at 1:57PM on 05/24/07
Ah, Kathryn, thanks. No, no one asked us. You are right that we could have used more dishes. Next time, I think I'll chill on the sake and order more food. That's why I was there anyways... to eat, not to drink.
That said, it definitely isn't a cheap eats spot. Bread and butter for $8 is almost insulting... I don't care if the butter is from goats in Europe. It's obviously not like dining at Per Se or something, or odering an $8 Amstel Light like I paid recently, but I was under the assumption, it was more reasonable. Oh well, the food was damn good.
NSW at 3:47PM on 05/24/07