New York

Bruni v. Meyer, Round 2

First it was Frank Bruni's lukewarm Times' review(s) of certain Danny Meyer establishments in the past (not the immediate past, where Bruni recently double-dipped excellent reviews of 2 Meyer outposts). Now, in today's (1/24) Times (Dining Out, 'You May Kiss The Chef's Napkin Ring'), Bruni, who's really starting to show some tiger stripes in his writing style, takes a shot at Meyer (no other way to put it) for feeding into the cult of chef ethic that's pervading many restaurants these days. The beauty part of the dig is that Meyer is the ONLY NON-CHEF who's name-checked for criticism, and it's a valid one: self-book-selling at his places' doors and above at least one of his bars (paraphrasing Bruni, in case you didn't see the book when you first walked in). Oh, it is so on...

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