PrintBruni v. Meyer, Round 2
First it was Frank Bruni's lukewarm Times' review(s) of certain Danny Meyer establishments in the past (not the immediate past, where Bruni recently double-dipped excellent reviews of 2 Meyer outposts). Now, in today's (1/24) Times (Dining Out, 'You May Kiss The Chef's Napkin Ring'), Bruni, who's really starting to show some tiger stripes in his writing style, takes a shot at Meyer (no other way to put it) for feeding into the cult of chef ethic that's pervading many restaurants these days. The beauty part of the dig is that Meyer is the ONLY NON-CHEF who's name-checked for criticism, and it's a valid one: self-book-selling at his places' doors and above at least one of his bars (paraphrasing Bruni, in case you didn't see the book when you first walked in). Oh, it is so on...
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2 Comments:
much ado about nothing Sandro.
dkstar1 at 10:24AM on 01/24/07
Wow, I didn't think Danny Meyer was the focus of his article at all - much ado about nothing vis-a-vis Mr. Meyer.
However, Bruni-Wan Kenobi, and the companion piece by Michael Ruhlman, certainly touch upon one of the worst treads in the dining world - the out-of-control spread of hucksterism and celebrity worship at all levels. Hell, gate keepers are now photographed and profiled for their ability to wield power and reduce the consumer to a quavering mass of flesh.
Enough I say, enough!
The good news is that there are still master chefs like David Shea at Applewood, Saul Bolton at Saul and Anna Klinger at Al Di La (all in Brooklyn) to rekindle your faith in a fine dining experience sans ego (to whatever extent that is actually possible.)
Livetotravel at 10:59AM on 01/24/07