New York

I Love Pahn-eh-TONE-eh

Why don't more bakeries try to make panettone? Sullivan St. is the only boutique place I know of that gives it a shot, but the two I've had from their shop (diff. years) were on the dry side. Could it be it's because even the most generic, truck-stop-looking, boxed Italian panettone for sale at Gristede's or Rite Aid blows away any more hi-falutin', contemplated baking attempts at the stuff? Maybe it's also labor-intensive as well, but fact is, it's so unnecessary when you consider that a Motta, Alemagna or Perugina panettone is pretty much treading Platonic ideal territory. In my life, I've had one elevated version, a Sorisi panettone purchased from Williams-Sonoma some years ago, containing marrone glaces pieces rather than raisins or candied fruit. What I'm curious about is whether anyone's tried to flip panettone into an even more elevated form, like panettone french toast or panettone bread pudding (come on, that sounds good, don't it?).

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