When you talk barbecue in Eastern North Carolina, you're not talking about fuffing with ribs or piddling shoulders. Baby back ribs are for babies, and what the heck's a brisket? Nope. In Eastern Carolina, barbecue means one thing: whole hog. That would be an entire pig, slow-smoked in the indirect heat of an oakwood fire until them eat is meltingly tender. On a recent road trip down south, I took a slight detour through Goldsboro to check out Wilber's. And being the Serious Eater that I am, I of course added another two stops on the way: B's in Greenville, and Grady's in Dudley.