Once the calendar flips to September, my mind begins drifting to fall. It matters little what the thermometer reads, the post-Labor Day season is a time for apples, hearty greens, and, of course, chicken soup. For me, the magical elixir cures not only cold symptoms, but back-to-school (or work) jitters as well. In The Mile End Cookbook, Noah and Rae Bernamoff present a simple yet full-bodied and rich take on the classic.
'the mile end cookbook' on Serious Eats
Schmaltz is a useful cooking fat to keep around the house; for our Cook the Book feature this week, it is used in Soup Mandel and Knishes. Keep the resulting Gribenes (fried chicken skin crackling) for snacks while you're cooking or toss them in a salad. If you don't have extra chicken skin hanging around the kitchen, call a butcher shop ahead of time and have them reserve it for you.