Pastry Chef Kierin Baldwin makes some insane pies at New York's The Dutch, like Poached Pear with Red Wine and Rosemary and Chocolate-Crust Coffee-Cream. But in no ways are pie the end-all of her talents.
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"Am I really going to live in Jersey City?" Jason Hua, the executive chef at The Dutch, asked himself before moving from Manhattan. But after spending a day across the Hudson river in New Jersey's second most populous city, with its Brooklyn-resembling tree-lined streets and sweeping views of the Manhattan skyline and Ms. Statue of Liberty, you'll start to understand why. Especially when you get to eating.
"All of us wanted to do something, to give back, to help and feed people hit the hardest," George Mendes of ALDEA explains. "We thoughts about cooking and donating the proceeds to charity, but then we realized we wanted to take it one step further—to take those funds, rent a truck, and feed those in need." In the days and weeks following a fundraiser dinner, NYC chefs plan to rent a food truck and take turns driving to the hardest hit parts of the outer boroughs to cook hot food for the people who need it most.
Vegetables can be incredibly tasty when done right, and yet when most people go out to eat, they tend not to order a vegetarian dish unless they're, well, a vegetarian. Here are 30 examples to make you reconsider.
Quick, before the season is over! There's an open-faced heirloom tomato sandwich with your name on it at The Dutch.
This Salted Key Lime Pie ($10) is intense. The flavors come as a one-two tart and salty punch. It's only after your tastebuds recover from that initial shock of flavors do you focus on the creamy, cool pie filling.
With 15 chefs cooking 15 courses for Clio's 15th Anniversary dinner, if food is really the new rock (as some claim it to be) and chefs the new rockstars, this was like the Bonnaroo of meals. That would make me the roadie of the meal, lending a hand here and there, mostly just honored to work with such talent. Take a behind-the-scenes look at all the action and the food.
Now this is the best way to end the work week. Stop in The Dutch and grab a seat at the bar. No need for a full meal—this Banana Cream Pie ($10) is decadent enough. A crumbly, well-spiced graham cracker crust serves as the base, and it's topped with fresh banana slices folded into thick, remarkably creamy pudding. All the housemade pies at The Dutch range from good to excellent, and this is a winner. And that's even before you factor in the tidy orange segments on a bed of chocolate ganache and perfectly round scoop of sour orange sherbert.
This salad ($14) could really win a Miss Beet Salad pageant. Fork up the watermelon-resembling hunks of candystripe beets and the darker, sweeter red beets. They're all lined in a row, mingling with sunflower seeds and sitting on a cool yogurt packed with fresh herbs like dill and chives.
There's probably nothing duller than steamed cauliflower—which is why cauliflower in just about any other form gets us so excited. Roasted or fried, it turns crisp-tender with irresistible nutty brown bits. Blended with cream or butter, it becomes rich and silken, a decadent soup or purée. And that's just scratching the surface. We've had excellent cauliflower dishes in New York from chefs of all culinary persuasions. Here are ten of our favorites. What's your favorite cauliflower preparation?
As befits an ingredient so texturally challenging and confounding in taste, tripe is generally regarded with particular revulsion from its dissenters. But once you get past the idea of it, tripe becomes quite delicious. Almost always braised, its fortifying qualities also make it perfect late-night food for the winter months.
At The Dutch, the Grapple Pie ($10) comes with a perfect lattice crust, all buttery with the right balance between crisp and flaky.
I could eat pie every single day during the autumn months. Seasonally appropriate pies of stone fruit, pumpkin or sweet potato—there's nothing I could tire of. At The Dutch, the Buttermilk Custard Pie is recent addition the menu. It's never just pie here, even though that may be what you order. This silky cool custard pie comes with a clean buttermilk tang, all resting against a crumbly, well-spiced backdrop, a gingersnap crust.
Our ideal late-night food isn't too different from our ideal brunch food—except that there are probably more eggs involved in the latter. On both counts, we're looking for something substantial and soul-satisfying, not too dressed-up, appropriately indulgent, often fried; good cocktails and relaxed service are a plus too. So given how much we liked the late-night menu at The Dutch, Andrew Carmellini's newish Soho restaurant, it's no surprise that we were pretty taken with brunch, as well.
Pies are a matter of great importance to those of us at Serious Eats—and they're a mighty tough thing to get right. But taste test after taste test, there have been some shops that nearly always emerge as top contenders—making excellent pies no matter the season, no matter the filling. So come meet our favorite 5 pie bakers in New York. (And one honorable mention!)
Andrew Carmellini's madhouse of a beautiful new Soho restaurant has crowds that don't quit; and it gets a second wind at 11:00pm, with a late-night-only menu that the chef calls "all the things I want to eat after midnight." That means fried chicken and ribs and burgers, along with some of our favorites from the dinner menu. It may be crowded, it may be noisy, and it may be a little later than you usually eat; but much of the menu is worth staying up for.
The first time I ever had Andrew Carmellini's cooking was at Cafe Boulud; the man loves all kinds of food, and he has the most restless culinary intellect of any chef I know—so what I most remember about that restaurant was its forays into other cuisines. Carmellini's come full circle at just-opened The Dutch, an explicitly American restaurant which celebrates American cuisine circa 2011.