What I'd really come to Thai North for was the kao soi, generally considered the national dish of Chiang Mai, and unfortunately hard to find in most American Thai restaurants. It's basically a brothy red curry with noodles, meat (usually chicken), and a heap of contrasting garnishes. The complex, coconut milk-enriched liquid, laced with chili oil, comes about halfway up the deep bowl and soaks into a generous tangle of chewy, flat noodles. Also swimming in the mix: a braised chicken leg, pickled mustard greens, crisp slices of raw red onion, cilantro, scallions, crunchy fried noodles, and a juicy lime wedge for squeezing. Alongside, a bowl of roasted chili paste. If there's another dish out there with a more balanced, multifaceted mixture of flavors and textures, I can't think of it.