Salty and briny with a metallic twang and more than a hint of iodine, sea urchin is (along with oysters) the most ocean-evocative food in the world, and as a seafood lover and lifelong coastal resident, I'm often in the mood to have the ocean evoked to me. Here are seven of my favorite ways to get sea urchin in New York. Some are simple, some are more complex, all are delicious.
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In my hands was a sea urchin plucked from the Caribbean not ten minutes before. The thing lay alive and quivering, its needles oscillating slowly wherever it was prodded. My plan was to go the hotel kitchen to procure a real knife and the company of cooks more sympathetic to my hunger for sea urchin roe.
A disc of uni butter atop Strip House's steak. Uni, or the edible part of the sea urchin, is already decadent enough as it is. So when Strip House—the Greenwich Village steakhouse where the walls are covered with burlesque...