Hear talk of New York street food, and the words "halal meat cart" will probably come up, followed by the words "white sauce" and "hot sauce." I'd heard these words more than a few times from friends in the city, but as a non-native, I had little idea what they were actually describing. In New York a la Cart, Alexandra Penfold and Siobhan Wallace highlight one particularly well-known halal cart called Kwik Meal. Kwik Meal's signature dish is a yogurt-y lamb (as opposed to the more typical chicken) marinated with mashed green papaya and a few choice spices. Served over rice with white sauce and hot sauce (Penfold and Wallace suggest cooking down spicy salsa verde for 10 minutes or so to replicate the hot sauce), this lamb is relatively mild in spice yet super tender, with a nice balance of acidity to rich meat.
'white sauce' on Serious Eats
Pepper gravy—essentially a heavily peppered bechamel that subs bacon grease for butter—is a simple base that serves as a building block to a whole host of other Southern gravies.