To complement their Tsimis recipe in The Mile End Cookbook, Noah and Rae Bernamoff offer another honey-sweetened vegetable dish: Brussels Sprouts. Here they also call for roasting, but the sprouts are given a high-heat treatment, emerging from the oven blistered and crisp. And then instead of coating the sprouts in a honey glaze, they use the sweetener to candy walnuts. A final flourish of sauteed Granny Smith apples completes the dish, balancing the bitter notes of the sprouts and nuts.
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For a traditional dish, Tsimis doesn't have the best reputation—most references to the dish include the words "mushy" or "cloying." Noah and Rae Bernamoff, however, employ some tricks in their recipe in The Mile End Cookbook to update the dish. They first roast the carrots to develop complexity and cook them almost all the way through in dry heat. Next, the carrots are tossed in a honey-thyme mixture with a mix of dried fruit and ginger. Finally, a huge handful of toasted sunflower seeds are tossed in for contrasting texture and slightly bitter, nutty bursts of flavor.
Anyone with any familiarity with the Mile End Deli knows that they take their smoked meat seriously. Noah and Rae Bernamoff offer detailed directions for re-creating their specialty in The Mile End Cookbook, but as a city-dweller who lacks a proper smoking set-up, I wanted to explore another one of their deli meats. Their Roast Beef is just as versatile as the smoked version, and the recipe couldn't be easier: season the roast, stick it in a hot, hot oven for 30 minutes or so, and then turn off the heat and let the meat cook through in the slowly cooling oven.
More than just a fun-to-say word, knishes are emblematic of Jewish deli snacks. Their hearty nature and portable shape make for an easy, if heavy, snack on the go. The version at the Mile End Deli is a different shape than most: rolled into a log instead of shaped into a dumpling, transforming the knish into light(-er) fare.