I eat a lot of falafel. It can come from a cart, a restaurant, or even a deli case--I don't really discriminate. But I probably should be more picky because most of the falafel out there isn't great. So much of the falafel I find is either greasy and falling apart or dense and dry. But after making King of Falafel & Shawarma's falafel recipe in Alexandra Penfold and Siobhan Wallace's new cookbook, New York a la Cart, I may stop buying my falafel pre-made (unless of course I happen to be in Astoria and happen to stop by the Falafel King himself). These falafel are made properly, with soaked dried chickpeas and a whole party of spices. Rolled into small balls and fried for just a few minutes, they emerge crisp-tender and fragrant. They're perfect in pita sandwiches or eaten one by one, with your hands, dipped into a giant bowl of tahini.