Summer is pesto time, at least in my house. Almost every green leaf I can get my hands on, from basil and parsley to carrot tops and kale, will get a whirl in the food processor with the requisite garlic, nuts, cheese, and olive oil over the course of the season. Yet despite my willingness to push pesto boundaries, I've never slipped in anchovies and green olives. This idea, from Melissa Hamilton and Christopher Hirsheimer's Canal House Cooks Every Day, was a revelation.
'anchovies' on Serious Eats
Olives, capers, and anchovies give this quick and easy tomato sauce a robust salty and briny character that goes a long way toward flavoring a plate of pasta.
Of all the words I could use to describe British food, simplicity would probably be the first. Scotch woodcock, a dish of soft scrambled eggs on toast topped with anchovies, is simplicity at its finest. And in the grand tradition of British dishes with funny names (welsh rarebit, salmagundi, cawl cennin) this dish uses no actual woodcock.
Rustic Italian bread slathered with garlic aioli and layered with fresh basil, sliced tomatoes, and a sprinkling of capers all make for a great match with anchovy fillets—almost like a Provencal BLT of sorts with the salty anchovies subbing in for the bacon, and basil in place of the lettuce.
When I was younger, I used to eat caesar salad all the time. Over the years, however, I have grown tired of the often over-dressed and heavy salad, preferring instead crisp, bright vinaigrettes and tender baby lettuces. But Richard Blais's smoked version of the caesar in Try This at Home has totally changed my tune. As in the classic, the basic salad elements are sparse: lettuce (Blais calls for either baby kale or romaine), croutons, dressing, and parmesan. The creamy dressing is what really sets this salad apart. He starts with a mayonnaise base (homemade or otherwise), and blends in a trifecta of smokey elements. Smoked sea salt, hickory powder or liquid smoke, and smoked paprika mingle with the anchovies and lemon for a potent dressing that clings perfectly to the greens.
Anchovy fillets, roasted red peppers, and Manchego cheese are spiked onto a garlic-rubbed baguette round and quickly toasted under the broiler. A drizzle of sherry vinegar right before serving provides some sharp acidity to cut through the saltiness of the anchovy, and nuttiness of the cheese. Salty, tangy, and crisp, these pintxos are great pre-cursors to a glass of wine or beer.
Crisp bitter greens and tart crunchy apple in a savory anchovy dressing.
This classic condiment is a type of seasoned anchovy butter that is also known as Patum Peperium. The strong anchovy flavor is complemented by cayenne pepper and ground nutmeg, and fresh lemon juice cuts through both the butter and the anchovy to add just a little lightness to this intense compound butter.
Plump, tangy, briny marinated anchovies are a far cry from the desiccated little monsters you see on pizza. Give them a chance!
Grilled summer vegetables, charred and juicy get a bold accent with pungent, briny, zest-highlighted anchovy butter. Warm grilled naan, pistachios, and cilantro add layers of flavor and uniqueness to this sandwich.
This bowl of Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe from Colman Andrews' The Country Cooking of Italy is a lovely example of that beautiful minimalism. The pasta and rabe cook in the same pot, coming together in a sizzling pan of anchovies and olive oil. The rest is merely a matter of tossing, plating and choosing whether to serve with toasty breadcrumbs or salty-crumbly ricotta salata.
This fun deconstructed Niçoise salad features herb-seared rare tuna tossed with potatoes, haricots verts, tomatoes, olives, anchovies, capers, and lemon-thyme citronette, all spooned into handy lettuce cups.
Note: Exclude the anchovies to make this a vegetarian sandwich....
This recipe for Beet Salad with Anchovies from The Art of Eating Cookbook comes from a book of traditional Provençal dishes, and is one that's certainly stood the test of time. Sweetly roasted beets with pungent bits of anchovy dressed with a bright vinaigrette, this is a dish that's simple to prepare but complex and truly delicious on the plate.
Anchoïade is a quirky alternative to tapenade made from just four ingredients: anchovies, garlic, olive oil, and vinegar. Serve it as a dip for crudités or as a spread for bread, all with a glass of white wine or rosé.
While my grandmother was busy frying fish on Christmas Eve, she'd put together this easy pasta dish. It uses canned clams, which I've come to expect from this dish. If you don't care for canned clams, omit them or steam...
Salade Niçoise is iconic, as is the Pan Bagnat which is just a Salade Niçoise sandwich. This is somewhere in the middle: a bread salad full of all the flavors that make a Salade Niçoise a Salade Niçoise: cherry tomatoes, tender blanched haricots verts, anchovies, garlic, lemon, olive oil, thyme, basil, and the best part, albacore in olive oil.
Though the recipe deviates from the authentic recipe from Tijuana (using Spain's ubiquitous sherry vinegar instead of lemon or lime juice), it's a delicious variation, and otherwise a pretty basic recipe centered around garlic and anchovies, like a proper Caesar dressing should be.
These roasted peppers have all sorts of uses on their own (think mixed into salads or blended with tomatoes for a pasta sauce) but they make a particularly nice pre-meal bite when piled onto crisp rounds of garlic-rubbed bread for these Roasted Pepper and Celery Leaf Crostini. They're finished with chopped celery leaves (a vastly underused green if there ever was one) and briny capers or anchovies—perfect little cocktail hour snacks that work equally well for evenings that are casual or a bit more elegant.
cauliflower is all potential: what is the whitest, blandest option on the crudite platter becomes deep and nutty when it's cooked with plenty of heat. In the best cauliflower pasta recipes, anchovies make an appearance, usually early on so they melt and disappear into the sauce, leaving only a nutty essence behind. This recipe from Lidia's Italy also brings in the classic Italian combination of pine nuts and raisins, along with the mellow, unmistakable flavor of saffron.