Sure, shellfish and cured pork almost always go well together—something I learned from Bill Buford's book Heat, a point he drives home over and over again. But then you take crème fraîche and mix in horseradish, then amp up the whole thing with spicy sambal paste? Too intriguing to pass up.
'Stephanie Izard' on Serious Eats
This recipe from Stephanie Izard is among the best tomato soups I've ever made. The secret is not only to use apples, which help thicken the soup give it some body, but also to skip the stock and use apple cider instead. Along with white wine, it adds acidity and sweetness, which are also the best qualities in a good tomato. A hit of sambal paste (a vinegary, chile condiment) gives it a tantalizing kick. The result is an intense base of flavor, rich and satisfying.
Last night I was trying to explain to a friend how much I enjoyed this one recipe from Stephanie Izard's new cookbook, Girl in the Kitchen. Turns out I was preaching the choir, as we had both apparently purchased the book, looked through the whole thing, and decided to try this exact same recipe.
Whenever I think about pork and apples, my mind usually imagines inch-thick chops with cooked apples along the side. (Hey, it's not a bad thought.) But this pair can also combine in other interesting ways. That's the lesson I learned form this recipe in Stephanie Izard's Girl in the Kitchen, which spruces up a quick ragu with browned bits of pork and loads of sliced Honeycrisp apples. The result is surprisingly light and relatively easy to put together.