'Fuchsia Dunlop' on Serious Eats
I've eaten my fair share of twice-cooked pork at Chinese restaurants, so I was eager to apply these flavors to one of my favorite winter greens, swiss chard. The brawny sauce—made with chilli bean paste, fermented black beans, garlic, ginger, chicken broth, and a generous pour of oil—transforms the green into an almost meaty dish.
Spicy dishes often come with chiles atop to prepare diners of the fire lurking within. There are no extra peppers above Fuchsia Dunlop's Cold Chicken with a Spicy Sichuanese Sauce from Every Grain of Rice, but the deep fiery red of the chilli oil should read as a warning sign to those weary of spice. But this chicken dish is not only about searing heat--the cold poached chicken, with its slippery skin and succulent meat, is beyond tender and moist; the bright spring onions and brown rice vinegar enliven the rich oil-slicked sauce; and the roasted grown Sichuan pepper is the final electrifying touch to the plate, giving the dish its signature ma la.
I was in the mood for some Chinese noodles, and nothing was going to stop me. This recipe from Fuchsia Dunlop's Land of Plenty combines sesame paste (tahini works too), chili oil, two kinds of soy sauce, and sesame oil to create a shockingly quick and filling meal. To balance out the fiercely spicy dish, I added quick-pickled carrots using David Chang's approach from the Momofuku cookbook.
I'm obviously on a little Fuchsia Dunlop kick. Last Wednesday it was her recipe for Mapo Tofu, and now it's fish fragrant eggplant which I found on the food blog Jessie and the Giant Plate. Now, about the smell. Your house won't start reeking of seafood when this dish is done. But honestly, there's a faint fishy flavor in the air. It's kind of miraculous.
Mapo Tofu kind of perfectly sums up what I love about Sichuan cuisine. It's feisty and slightly out of control, and yet it still feels homey and relaxed. Sure, the chili bean paste adds a wallop of heat, and the Sichuan peppercorns numb the inside of your mouth, but it's not overly greasy or heavy. It's meaty, but as much of the umami punch comes form the fermented black beans as the ground pork. This recipe comes from Fuchsia Dunlop's Land of Plenty, and she really hit the necessary balance here.
By far the smallest kidneys I've had the pleasure of cooking, these lamb kidneys pack a lot of aroma into one small package. I had originally planned to grill the kidneys but after one whiff, I knew they needed plenty of tongue-numbing chilies and pepper and alcohol (like rice wine) to counter their assertive smell, so I went with this recipe for fried kidneys by Fuchsia Dunlop.
[Photograph: fuchsiadunlop.com] I've been meaning to make this recipe for at least a month. Ever since I laid eyes on Fuchsia Dunlop's Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook: Recipes from Hunan Province, I've been drooling over the recipe on the book's cover: Chairman...
[Photographs: Nick Kindelsperger] Chinese cuisine is one I've been flirting with now for a few months. But with a copy of Revolutionary Chinese by Fuchsia Dunlop, I felt confident to move beyond the standard take-out fare and see what else...