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Dinner Tonight: Spicy Noodles with Tofu (Dou Hua Mian)

I was in the mood for some Chinese noodles, and nothing was going to stop me. This recipe from Fuchsia Dunlop's Land of Plenty combines sesame paste (tahini works too), chili oil, two kinds of soy sauce, and sesame oil to create a shockingly quick and filling meal. To balance out the fiercely spicy dish, I added quick-pickled carrots using David Chang's approach from the Momofuku cookbook. More

Dinner Tonight: Mapo Tofu

Mapo Tofu kind of perfectly sums up what I love about Sichuan cuisine. It's feisty and slightly out of control, and yet it still feels homey and relaxed. Sure, the chili bean paste adds a wallop of heat, and the Sichuan peppercorns numb the inside of your mouth, but it's not overly greasy or heavy. It's meaty, but as much of the umami punch comes form the fermented black beans as the ground pork. This recipe comes from Fuchsia Dunlop's Land of Plenty, and she really hit the necessary balance here. More

The Nasty Bits: Lamb Kidneys

By far the smallest kidneys I've had the pleasure of cooking, these lamb kidneys pack a lot of aroma into one small package. I had originally planned to grill the kidneys but after one whiff, I knew they needed plenty of tongue-numbing chilies and pepper and alcohol (like rice wine) to counter their assertive smell, so I went with this recipe for fried kidneys by Fuchsia Dunlop. More