Posted by Lucy Baker, July 18, 2008 at 1:30 PM
Did you know there is a difference between smoked salmon and lox? Before I moved to New York, I certainly didn't. Sure, they both come from the same fish, but lox is actually pickled in brine—it's not smoked at all. The resulting flavor is exceptionally salty, perfect for pairing with doughy bagels schmeared with cream cheese.
Often substituted for lox (or worse, falsely labeled as it), smoked salmon is far less briny and has a delicate, oily texture and silky taste. The salmon is traditionally cold smoked, which means the fish is kept far enough away from the flame to absorb only the smoke and not the heat.
These days, smoked salmon is much more popular than lox, which has been mostly relegated to the few remaining appetizing shops in New York. Steve Jenkins, author of this week's Cook the Book selection, The Food Life, writes: "Lox is like a forgotten aunt who used to be beloved and prominent but is now merely tolerated, when she shows up at the house at all."
In celebration of those old-fashioned, time-honored weekend brunches, attended by ancient family members everywhere, today's Cook the Book recipe is for Lox, Eggs, and Onions. Substitute smoked salmon if you must, but true lox will provide a sharper contrast between the delicate eggs and sweet onions.
Win 'The Food Life'
In addition to excerpting a recipe each day, we're giving away five copies of The Food Life. Enter to win here »
Continue reading »
Posted by Lucy Baker, July 17, 2008 at 1:00 PM
Fairway's ten-year old seafood department is well-known as one of the freshest and best in New York. This is due In large part to head fishmonger Tony Maltese. Born and raised in Brooklyn, Tony was a fisherman long before he ever worked at Fairway—in fact, he once caught a prize-winning 760-pound bluefin tuna off the coast of Montauk. Needless to say, he is a firm believer in the Fairway adage to "Buy fish from people who fish."
Today's Cook the Book recipe is for Rosemary and Chile-Grilled Shrimp with Lemon Zest. If, like me, you lack a backyard grill, simply sear these shrimp on the stove in a hot frying pan. They're perfect hot or at room temperature, tossed in a salad, or served over couscous as a main course. The Food Life author Steve Jenkins recommends buying whole shrimp with the heads on: "all that gunk in there is flavor, no doubt about it." But if you're squeamish, peeled and deveined shrimp would still be delicious.
Win 'The Food Life'
In addition to excerpting a recipe each day, we're giving away five copies of The Food Life. Enter to win here »
Continue reading »
Posted by Lucy Baker, July 16, 2008 at 1:45 PM
Of all the well-stocked aisles, overflowing produce bins, and plentiful culinary departments at Fairway, none is quite as impressive as the deli counter. Which stands to reason—after all, the market is in New York City, birthplace of the Jewish delicatessen. While traditional kosher delis adhere to strict dietary rules, the Fairway counter is more of a "New World" deli, offering a dizzying array of cooked and cured meats, sausages, pates, and terrines made from pork, beef, chicken, and even wild boar.
Today's Cook the Book recipe, excerpted from The Food Life, harkens back to the glory days of the delicatessen. New York Deli-Style Roast Beef Sandwich with Coleslaw and Russian Dressing is a classic wonder made from rare roast beef, tangy carrot-studded coleslaw, and sweet pickle relish all heaped between—what else?—thick slices of seeded Jewish rye.
If you don't have time to roast your own shell steaks for this recipe, you can substitute high-quality deli roast beef. Just make sure it is extremely rare and very thinly sliced.
Win 'The Food Life'
In addition to excerpting a recipe each day, we're giving away five copies of The Food Life. Enter to win here »
Continue reading »
