'Coleman Andrews' on Serious Eats
In the intro to this recipe for Potatoes with Porcini from The Country Cooking of Italy, author Colman Andrews tells us a little about the thrifty ways of the people of Liguria. When procini season rolls around, Ligurians stretch their pricy 'shrooms by bulking them up with inexpensive potatoes. Baked gratin style, the potatoes have a chance to take on all of lovely qualities of the porcinis.
This bowl of Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe from Colman Andrews' The Country Cooking of Italy is a lovely example of that beautiful minimalism. The pasta and rabe cook in the same pot, coming together in a sizzling pan of anchovies and olive oil. The rest is merely a matter of tossing, plating and choosing whether to serve with toasty breadcrumbs or salty-crumbly ricotta salata.
Sweet and nutty, briefly blanched and peeled favas are tossed with salty bits of crumbled young pecorino and drizzled with olive oil. Simple? Well sure, but this snack is really all about the simplicity and goodness of the ingredients.
These Frico or Friulano Cheese Crisps from The Country Cooking of Italy are the perfect little bite to go along with the pre-dinner drink. Savory and salty, crisp and cheesy, they have the munchability of a potato chip with an apertivo-level elegance.