The food at Molino Rojo, a Dominican steamtable conveniently located right off the 161st Street stop, won't blow you away. But you will leave satisfied, so long as you order right. And for those running late to the game, for whom a diversion up to Nano Billiards would prove too time consuming, Molino offers a decent alternative.
'pernil' on Serious Eats
The Pernil With a Twist ($6.95) has chunks of roast pork—the kind you want to pick out, pull apart, and relish separately. Deeper in, among the onion slivers and jalapeno-green sauce, there are homely fried lumps of sweet plantain, golden nuggets that cry mine me, mine me!
Even though the cooking method went against a lot of my education on how to best cook a pork shoulder, this pernil produced a tender and garlicky meat that rightfully stands as one of the great ways to prepare the ever magical swine.