"Take two of the best classic deli sandwiches and combine them." [Original artwork and photographs: Hawk Krall] Past Weeks' Dogs Danish Hot Dog24th & Passyunk TruckTexas TommyPhilly Dirty Water DogChicago Dog Kosher hot dogs have always been a staple of New York delicatessens. It was only a matter of time before a deli man or two decided to pile some of that delicious pastrami on top of a frankfurter. The components are pretty self explanatory: all-beef kosher hot dog piled high with good, moist pastrami, on a poppy seed bun, maybe garnished with a squirt of deli mustard. I found one here in Philadelphia at Famous 4th Street Deli, probably our most well-known classic delicatessen. My Pastrami Dog came with...
Continue reading »
Delis are a lot like religion and politics—be careful what you say or somebody will leave the conversation offended. People take a pretty serious stance on mustard type, knishes, and what city is the premiere deli city. David Sax, author of the blog Save the Deli (and the same-named book coming out in October) has chowed on pastrami in New York, Los Angeles, Montreal, Paris, London, and Poland, but thinks the magic is really in Los Angeles. There has been no grand decline in the L.A. deli scene. Most are packed, sometimes around the clock…The delis out there are bigger, are more comfortable, and ultimately serve better food than any other city in America, including the best pastrami sandwich...
Continue reading »
Even the shortest visit to the Steel City will teach you that Pittsburgh pride runs deep—starting with the Steelers, and ending with the sandwich. The Primanti Bros. sandwich, that is. I had hardly touched down at the Pittsburgh International Airport before being whisked from baggage claim straight to Primanti’s for my first taste of the ‘Burgh. Their flagship location in the Strip District, where a colorful mural of notable Pittsburghers hangs along one wall, is something of a city landmark. Originally a wooden lunch stand serving huge, hearty sandwiches to Depression-era truckers pulling up to the loading docks across the street, Joe Primanti’s operation has spawned fourteen satellites throughout the city—though the first (and best) is the only one...
Continue reading »
Let's face it. The Super Bowl gives us all an excuse to eat something out of the ordinary, to partake of foods we don't eat and can't even get every day. That's where the joy of ordering shipped regional specialties comes in. I believe that the Super Bowl gives serious eaters everywhere license to indulge in that vaguely decadent practice of ordering food by mail. If you do decide to take the plunge, here are some mighty tasty options to consider. I know it's kind of late in the game (the eating game, that is) to be writing this, but if you order today (Jan. 29) or tomorrow (Jan. 30), your feast will arrive in plenty of time. And if...
Continue reading »
The world of serious sandwiches suffered a terrible loss this week with the death of Al Langer at the ripe (or should I say cured) old age of 94. I got the news in an e-mail from David Sax, a Canadian food writer who is on a mission to save Jewish deli food. Langer and his wife Jean founded Los Angeles' only great Jewish deli in 1947. His pastrami, made to his specifications, was a peppery, smokey ode to Jewish soul food. When I wrote favorably about Langer's pastrami in the New York Times, I was practically stoned by New York deli afficionados the next time I walked into Katz's. They might as well have put a "fatwa" on...
Continue reading »
