You know what we need more of in this world? No, no. I mean aside from Mr. Wizard episodes and eternal puppies. We need more slow-cooked, fall-apart tender meat sandwiches. Up in my part of Harlem, soul food and French cuisine define the restaurant scene, which means that EVERY supermarket in a 10 block radius sells a steady stream of oxtail. Why not start our braised meat sandwiching right there?
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A savory sandwich made with braised oxtail, pickled cherry peppers, and melted Gruyère cheese.
I bet you thought you'd never utter "oxtail" and "marmalade" in the same breath. It is a sweet dish, sweetened with brown sugar and rich with red wine and red wine vinegar. There is something distinctly jam-like, I'll admit, about spreading the oxtail on toast.
I bet you never thought you'd utter oxtail and marmalade in the same breath. It is a sweet dish, sweetened with brown sugar and rich with red wine and red wine vinegar. There is something distinctly jam-like, I'll admit, about spreading the oxtail on toast.
Whenever I have a bony cut that needs long cooking, I put it in a pot with water and wine and leave it over the lowest heat on the stove. The broth will make a nice base for any number of noodle soup dishes, the easiest one-pot meal there is if you wilt some greens into the pot at the last moment.
Adapted from Land of Plenty by Fuschia Dunlop...
Before I had ever eaten bone marrow, one of my friends compared it to meat butter. Having never experienced it for myself I was immediately sold on his description. What could be better than meat butter? With this concept permanently in my subconscious, I made the Beef Marrow Bones with Oxtail Marmalade served at Blue Ribbon Brasserie. The dish was kind of like butter and jam—but made entirely from animal protein.
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[Photographs: Chichi Wang] To make a stew, there must be gelatin and bone. To find the highest concentration of the two, look no further than tail. I've written before on the perfection of pigs' tails, but bovine tails make for...