Entries tagged with 'offal'
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If anyone can wax poetic about chicken feet and pigs' ears, it's Chichi, our resident
Nasty Bits columnist. Watch this video of her on
Today.com explaining her love of organ meat from a young Chichi. "Why would I want a Gummy Bear if I can have chicken feet... I've never thought of it as something strange."
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For those of you wondering why Tuesdays have been offal-deficient of late, I've been away in China with my family. My aunt passed away in an accident in August, leaving our family without its most handy and adventurous cook. On the last day of mourning,
we laid out my aunt's final meal at the table next to her picture and the burning incense. The most honored dish, cooked by her daughter, my cousin, was stir-fried liver and onions.
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To be honest,
organ meat is not for everyone, and there are some things that will certainly appeal to meat and potato types more than others. If you're a bit squeamish, stick to the muscle-based meats such as the hanger, tongue, or cheek. Sweetbreads are a good gateway organ with a mild flavor and creamy texture, while honeycomb tripe is a good first step into digestive-system meats. Look for a special of marinated testicles if they've got it. Here are some pics and descriptions of what you can expect to find inside a cow.
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Giblet gravy may be good for the bird, but
it's not, in my estimation, what's best for the giblets themselves. Instead, consider giblet pasta. The gizzards (and the neck, if you have it) are simmered in a simple pasta sauce, which can either be red (with tomatoes) or white (with wine and butter) depending on your preference.
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A pig snout, a pound of dried split green peas, and a pot of water
practically make themselves into soup on a cold winter's night.
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Biscochitos are a traditional New Mexican holiday cookie; a subtly porky confection made from lard, with anise seeds and brandy or rum. In December, biscochitos comprise maybe thirty percent of the diet of the average New Mexican. It is considered bad form to go to a social gathering or leave one without having brought your own batch and sampled that of your friends and coworkers.
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I didn't do anything to contribute to this delectable platter of seared heart and eggs, besides providing moral support and a mouth to feed. After trimming away the part of the heart through which the bullet entered, Kenji sliced, salted, and seared the heart with plenty of browned butter.
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As the weather turns colder and soupy things become my default, I remember that
one of my favorite toppings for noodle soup is, in fact, intestines. They are not the small intestines from which chitlins are made but part of the large intestines. At Asian markets you'll find this part of the large intestines labeled as bung. Its taste is meaty and porky and, because sometimes I am at a loss to describe that ineffably "gamey" or animalistic flavor of innards, let me just say that intestines taste "offal-y."
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For many people, the passing of Halloween signals that it is time to start fretting about the gift-giving season. For the offal lover on your list, consider this: pickled offal and animal parts.
Nothing says, "I care for you. You are a special, appreciated person in my life," like a jar of pickled feet, and if you've gone through the trouble of pickling the parts yourself, all the better.
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I haven't written about blood in this column only because,
like lungs from last week, it is so difficult to track down fresh poultry blood or find a restaurant that knows how to handle it. (Which is to say, to not handle it very much at all: There is nothing worse than overcooked blood; it becomes leathery and its delicate, intangible flavor dries up as well.) Prepared properly, congealed blood really is one of my favorite flavors.
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