Chef Nick Anderer has taken on an ambitious project: dusting off old Roman recipes that sometimes involve pigs feet and lamb intestines and making them palatable for a New York audience. But no matter how he does it, what matters most to him is that everyone leaves Maialino with a smile on their faces. Here he tells us how he tries to do just that.
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Nick Anderer, executive chef at excellent NYC Italian restaurant Maialino, has no shortage of tricks up his chef-whites; see his perfectly poached eggs for evidence. But what does he cook when he's in the comfort of his own home? On a humid summer night, we stopped by Nick's apartment for kimchi fried rice jazzed up with homemade kimchi and leftover pork belly from the restaurant.
I've heard from countless Italian food experts that Italians in Italy as a whole and Rome in particular, don't eat much for breakfast—that most people tend to make do with coffee, roll, and juice for a modest beginning to the day. So what explains the spate of well-regarded and reviewed Italian restaurants serving amazing, only in New York breakfasts? Maialino is the latest—and, perhaps, one of the best.