'new york times' on Serious Eats

Nicoletta: What Michael White is Really After

Some regular Slice-reading New Yorkers might be wondering why a national pizza blog with a strong New York bent has been completely mum on the pies at Nicoletta, the new pizza venture from über-Chef Michael White who happens to one of the greatest (not to mention one of our favorite) Italian chefs in the city. And you'd be right to wonder. Other than a brief First Look, we've been silent on the subject. Honestly, it was the initial negative press culiminating in Pete Wells' zero-star review in the New York Times that made us give pause and consider the matter. I mean, what is Michael White doing serving heavy, midwestern pizza with a sauce made with dried herbs and low moisture Wisconsin mozzarella? Here's the real story. More

Video: New York Times 'Pizza from Scratch'

Melissa Clark of the New York Times Dining Section offers a respectable basics guide to making pizza at home. That's not to say there aren't some debatable points. (At the risk of sounding snobby, I can't advocate pre-shredded mozzarella. And, garlic a must? Debatable. I don't want to talk about the kitchen shears.) But this video is full of practical at-home modifications for the occasional pizza maker, like using the back of a baking sheet as a peel (my go-to method), not using a rolling pin, using moderation with toppings, and getting the oven properly pre-heated. Certainly better tips than these. Ultimately, it's great to see guides that encourage more home cooks to make pizza. More

This Week in 'New York Times' Food News

    Two Stars: At Marcus Samuelsson's new Harlem restaurant, the scene is cheerful and the fried yard bird is worth a trip from anywhere.
  • Yolks vs. Whites: Chefs find creative ways to put all the parts of the egg to good use.
  • Modernist Cuisine: This 40 volume book is "mind-crushingly boring eye-bulgingly riveting, edifying, infuriating, frustrating, fascinating, all in the same moment."
  • New Chef in Tijuana: Javier Plascencia hopes his new restaurant Mision 19 will help revitalize the city he calls home.
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Weekend 'New York Times' Food News

  • Sake-Steamed Chicken: Trade in crispy for this aromatic chicken with a texture soft as custard.
  • Diet to Live Forever: The billionaire David Murdock avoids dairy, alcohol, sugar, and salt so that he can live to celebrate his 125th birthday.
  • Puritan Chefs: Some New York restaurants answer customers' special requests with a "no way."
  • Making Waves in Chinatowns: A California bill moves to ban the possession of shark fins, and thus the popular Chinese shark fin soup.
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Weekend 'New York Times' Food News

  • Quickie Banh Mi: A sandwich that maintains "the porky-pickled-fiery essence of a classic banh mi with easy-to-find ingredients."
  • Coke Recipe: People go crazy for favorite corporate recipes, like the one for Coca Cola.
  • Cocktails, Sans Booze: For the nondrinkers: yuzu and rose spritzes and kumquat-and-fennel smashes.
  • Time for Dinner: It's a challenge to juggle cooking for your family and working all day.
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Rant: What The New York Times Doesn't Know About Bánh Mì

Ok, so I'm gonna pull an Adam and pull out the Truth Hammer for this one. Pardon me as I sputter indignantly in public for a moment. Was anyone else flabbergasted at the appalling lack of reporting, knowledge, and taste displayed in New York Times writer Jordan Michelman's recent article about bánh mì modestly titled "Banh Mi In America"? Reading through it the other night, I was so shocked at the level of ignorance and the misinformation displayed that I was compelled to shoot off an email to Chichi, Robyn, and Tam just to vent. Never mind that his choices for best bánh mì in the country are... puzzling (you don't have to take my word for it: OC... More

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