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Bill Buford Likes Gordon Ramsay, He Really Does
Photograph from gordonramsay.com In this week's New Yorker, Bill Buford takes us behind the scenes and into the kitchen of screaming English chef Gordon Ramsay as he opens a restaurant in New York City. Buford's a terrific writer, but I'm not sure we learn anything that surprising in its 12 pages. Ramsay curses a lot, is a surprisingly understated chef, and is really a good bloke when you drill down and get to know him. The story's big revelation is that Ramsay himself stole the reservation book at Aubergine, his London restaurant, and then accused his former mentor Marco Pierre White of doing it to prevent White from making a deal with Aubergine's principal owners to take over the...Savoring Saveur Shrimp
Has anyone else noticed how much better Saveur is now that its former editor in chief Coleman Andrews has taken his globetrotting ways to Gourmet? New editor in chief James Oseland is doing a terrific job. The magazine is more readable, more relevant, and just plain fun. The March issue featured a terrific multifaceted feature on shrimp. Who doesn't love shrimp? The big shrimp section includes great recipes for barbecued shrimp from Tory McPhail of Commander's Palace, shrimp chowder from Sam Hayward from Fore Street in Portland, Maine, and stir-fried shrimp with snow peas from my friend Ed Schoenfeld, AKA "Chop Suey Looey."...What's Your Favorite Food Glossy?
Food Glossies Trumped by a "T" I'm a compulsive reader of the food glossies: Gourmet, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, and Saveur. Aren't you? Each has its virtues, though I can't say that any one of them really speaks to me. I like Gourmet's food politics stories and some of its writers (Jane and Michael Stern, John T. Edge, Calvin Trillin), but I don't share Ruth Reichl's enthusiasm for hiring as many novelists as she can to write stories for her. I used to look forward to reading Pete Wells' column in Food & Wine, but now that he's gone I'm sure I'm going to find Food & Wine's penchant for celebritizing everything (It's the In Style of food magazines)...Paris food picks from someone who knows
In this month's Food & Wine Anya Von Bremzen interviewed Francois Simon, Le Figaro's Grand Reporter, who according to Vom Bremzen is a "provocateur who uses his whimsically poisonous prose to shake up the ossified world of French haute cuisine, and the ferocious expense and acrid snobbery that goes with it." My friend Steingarten knows and respects Simon very much, so I tend to trust his judgment as well. Here are a few of his picks: Gaya: 44 rue du Bac, 7th Arr.: 011-33-1-45-44-73-73: Three star chef's inventive, casual new fish restaurant. Le Bistrot Paul Bert: 18 Rue Paul Bert, 11th Arr.: 011-33-1-43-72-24-01. Great insider's bistro. Bakery: Boulangerie Julien (75 Rue St. Honore, 1st Arr., 011-33-1-42-36-24-83. Baguettes and croissants. For...Pass the Pig, Please
I hate to keep mining yesterday's New York times for my posts, but there were lots of thought-provoking food stories worth commenting on. Michael Pollen's Times Magazine cover story on hunting for his dinner was well-written but ultimately unsurprising. Pollen concluded after shooting a pig and serving it to his dinner guests that that killing the flesh he served made the food on his table more meaningful. I guess the only other conclusion he could have come to was that he and every other carnivore should become a vegetarian or even worse, a vegan....Hot Topics: Technique of the Week | The Food Lab
Today's Specials
8 Delicious Chocolate Cakes and Pies for Valentine's Day
Some might say that chocolate on Valentine's Day is about as unoriginal as you can get. We all remember the first heart-shaped box of overly sweet chocolate bonbons from grade school Valentines. But chocolate gift-giving needn't be a cliché. This year, let's bake our sweethearts chocolate cakes and pies instead! Here are 8 delicious recipes perfect for celebrating your love (of chocolate.)
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BraveTart: Make Your Own Butterfingers »
Sandwiched: Crisp Grilled Cheese »
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