The Nasty Bits: Liver Meatballs
How much liver can you fit into a meatball? No, this is not the set-up for a bad joke, but a very serious inquiry—that is, if you happen to love liver and meatballs. More
How much liver can you fit into a meatball? No, this is not the set-up for a bad joke, but a very serious inquiry—that is, if you happen to love liver and meatballs. More
Since I've come back to New Mexico, I've been smothering everything in either red or green chile. Red chile sauce makes for a much better accompaniment to liver than green. Smother liver in green chile, and you feel like you're eating some deranged liver salsa. But paired with red, the liver tastes rich but not intensely so, and the spiciness of the sauce complements the strong taste of the organ. More
For those of you wondering why Tuesdays have been offal-deficient of late, I've been away in China with my family. My aunt passed away in an accident in August, leaving our family without its most handy and adventurous cook. On the last day of mourning, we laid out my aunt's final meal at the table next to her picture and the burning incense. The most honored dish, cooked by her daughter, my cousin, was stir-fried liver and onions. More
Liver parfait is summer's answer to pate. Maybe you don't feel like going through the rigmarole of grinding, mixing, and cooking pate as your kitchen heats up on an already heated summer day, but you still want something that feels like charcuterie. Liver parfait is just such a thing: cubes of liver, browned just until the centers are cooked through, suspended in a delicate gelatin of muscadet with bits of caramelized onion enriched with butter and cream. More
What happens when I love a dish as much as I love mapo tofu? I think to myself, how can I add offal, and thereby increase my enjoyment by twofold? More
Giblet gravy may be good for the bird, but it's not, in my estimation, what's best for the giblets themselves. Instead, consider giblet pasta. The gizzards (and the neck, if you have it) are simmered in a simple pasta sauce, which can either be red (with tomatoes) or white (with wine and butter) depending on your preference. More
I have eaten dulet (an Ethiopian combination of beef, liver, and lamb tripe) for four straight meals in a row. This is a record, even for me. The first of those meals took place at Lalibela, a popular Ethiopian restaurant in the Logan Circle neighborhood of Washington, D.C. They were out of beef tripe, but they had lamb tripe in the kitchen. The waitresses ask me every time I order a dish containing organs if I am sure that's what I want. Yes, I always reply without hesitation. More
Pekokys and pertrikys perboylyd schyn be, Lardyd, rostyd, eton, levys me Or, in other words... Peacocks and partridges shall be parboiled, Larded, roasted, eaten, believe me, With ginger [sauce], paindemaine pared clean And ground in a mortar, that is fair, Mixed up with good vinegar, With powder of ginger and salt, by the Rood, And drawn through a strainer mild, Served forth with peacock and partridge wild. (more) As the rest of us pass the days eating Fritos with one hand down our pants, a committed group of invisible volunteers (elves?) has spent the past God-knows-how-many-hours diligently scanning historical culinary texts into the Internet. Wondering what to cook tonight? Check out the thirteenth-century German cookbook Ein Buch von Guter Spise,... More