For the last three years, I've made the same cookies for the Serious Eats cookie swap:
biscochitos, the official cookie of New Mexico, an all-lard cookie made with rum and anise seeds then rolled in cinnamon and sugar. I keep hoping that the next year, the lard trend will catch on, but people are so partial to butter. And I can't blame them.
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Why would you want to make lard focaccia?
If you want your focaccia to taste like lard, of course. As an added bonus, as the focaccia bakes your entire house will smell like lard, though you can also use duck fat or mix in a little bacon fat if you'd prefer something with a smoky flavor.
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Biscochitos are a traditional New Mexican holiday cookie; a subtly porky confection made from lard, with anise seeds and brandy or rum. In December, biscochitos comprise maybe thirty percent of the diet of the average New Mexican. It is considered bad form to go to a social gathering or leave one without having brought your own batch and sampled that of your friends and coworkers.
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Suet is my
new favorite fat. It is, for reasons baffling to me, the least known of all the animal fats we use in our kitchens. Its porcine equivalent is leaf lard, the cylindrical mass of fat surrounding the kidneys of the pig; suet is the term we use for the fat surrounding the kidneys of cows.
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Photograph by Craig Lee / The Chronicle Lard is the new bacon. It's showing up on t-shirts, at farmers' markets, and, according to James Temple's feature on the history and current use of lard in the San Francisco Chronicle, in popular restaurants around the Bay Area. But lard wasn't always welcome in the kitchen. Temple explains that while lard used to be a chef's best friend—records of its use date bake to 1420—all that changed when Proctor & Gamble introduced Crisco in 1911 and proclaimed that animal fats were unsophisticated and unsafe. With increasing heart attack rates in the late 1960s, fear of fat kicked in and pushed lard even further out of the picture....
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The English Food Pyramid is pretty hilarious to me—but then I'm not an English nutritionist. The very tip of the pyramid is labeled "Fats, Oils and Sweets", contains lard, suet, bacon, shortbread, heavy cream and castor sugar, and has the notation "eat sparingly". [via malaclyps del.icio.us]...
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