In Frank Bruni's review of Belgian restaurant Resto he mentions one of the more than 50 beers served: "Order the Kwak, a beverage and a puzzle in one. If you don’t remove its hourglass-shaped goblet from a wood cradle at just the right angle, you go thirsty. And if you don’t return it to the cradle just so, it goes horizontal." A tip for Frank Bruni and anyone else unfamiliar with Kwak: it's perfectly acceptable to keep the glass in the cradle, raising the cradle and glass together to drink. And there's a reason for the unusually shaped Kwak glass. Kwak was first brewed in 1791, in the days of the stage coach. Stage coaches would often stop at an...
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