We meet K. F. Seetoh down one of Geylang's alleys. Tiger beer bottles roll across the ground as we hear the clang-slam-roar of woks and metal tongs and open flames. The middle of the alley cradles a czecha called J. B. Ah Meng, an outdoor eating house ripe with the odors of smoky stir fries and sweet ocean crab. Above it all the air carries the candied funk of durian from a fruit market down the street. Why has one of the experts on Singapore's food culture brought us here?