It's a quick pickle, meaning it isn't processed in a boiling water bath for shelf stability. The fennel is sliced thinly, tossed with some salt and allowed to sit for an hour or so. This salting step draws out some of the liquid and makes space for the vinegar to enter the fennel. The finished product is half salad, half pickle and all flavorful crunch.
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There's no shortage of great sandwiches in Portland, and the
fennel-marinated porchetta and fennel sauerkraut from
Wildwood is one of our favorites. Chef
Dustin Clark marinates the pork for 12 hours in olive oil, fennel seed, fennel frond, caramelized fennel, garlic, chile flake, salt, and pepper, before a 12-hour slow roast makes it fall-apart tender.
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Fennel is a generally divisive vegetable. Crisp, with a distinct anise flavor, it can be overpowering for some people. I like my fennel in small doses. Sliced super thin on a mandoline and tossed with citrus segments and a nice lemony vinaigrette, it's a great winter salad that goes well with sausages, terrines, and other charcuterie.
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The bulb, foliage, seeds, and even pollen of the fennel plant is used in a variety of world cuisines, especially those of the Mediterranean variety. Fennel seeds are often dried and used as a powerful, anise-flavored spice; it's commonly seen in Italian sausage, Greek artichoke dishes, and numerous spice mixtures such as the Bengali
panch phoron and Chinese five-spice powders. People in Pakistan and India even use the seeds as an after-meal digestive and breath freshener. And the crispy bulb can be sauteed, stewed, braised, grilled, or eaten raw.
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Since the world just can't get enough vampires, Tom Colicchio does a little plug for the second season of HBO's True Blood, which returned on Sunday, with this red goo-resembling drink made of beet juice, roasted sugar snap peas, fennel, fava beans, and chicken stock. Colicchio is looking out for all those awkward scenarios when your vamp friends can't eat with the humans and are craving a 98.6°F drink. The video, after the jump....
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Fennel is a sight for sore eyes during the potato-filled winter months.
Crunchy like celery and and slightly sweet like licorice or anise, it'll brighten your plate right up. Fennel loses its flavor as it ages so be sure to eat it right away. It'll keep in your crisper for about four days.
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