Pigging Out at Fergus Henderson's St. John Restaurant, London
When one talks about food, the word decadent is usually reserved for things like rich chocolaty desserts and expensive ingredients like truffles or foie gras. It isn't usually used to describe dishes like ox heart or pig's head—and yet after a recent meal at Fergus Henderson's St. John Restaurant in London that included both of those things, I can't think of another word to use.
If you are going to consume a meal entirely of pork fat and offal (pronounced "awful" by those who both love it and hate it), there is really only one place to do it. Opened in 1994 by Henderson, St. John Restaurant has become a mecca for eaters looking for a bit of "nose to tail" eating.
As a lover of all things pig, I knew I was in for a treat when we walked into the converted smokehouse and were greeted by three fully roasted, beautiful-looking suckling pigs. One was in the front room, waiting to be picked apart and made into sandwiches for a private cocktail party happening later in the night, and two others were just relaxing above a stove in the open kitchen.
