Entries tagged with 'duck'
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While I'll always prefer duck breasts cooked to a rosy medium, a whole duck on the grill poses a problem—a medium breast isn't going to happen if you want to cook the rest of the meat properly. So in an effort to keep the breast meat tasty and juicy when cooked well, start the duck in a soy sauce-based brine.
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I was at
Borough Market, walking around after I'd had my requisite chorizo sandwich at
Brindisa, when I walked by a huge, steaming paella pot vat of shredded duck. When you see that much duck confit in one place, you've got to talk to someone about it, figure out what's going on, and decide how you can eat it immediately. Fullness should not be prohibitive.
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It's essentially a salad in name only. There
is a nice bed of greenery down there, dressed in a simple, creamy vinaigrette. But on top are potatoes sauteed in garlic and olive oil; and in the case of the Gascon, an incredibly generous cut of foie gras and tender petals of smoked magrets (duck breast). So that's: fatty duck, fried potatoes, and fattier duck. (And green stuff.)
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This is the first of probably many posts on pate. Why it has taken me almost two years to talk about pate in the
Nasty Bits column, which by definition emphasizes ingredients like liver and fat, is really only due to my fear of overeating it. I envy those friends who can have just a little nibble on toast and bread, then say, "oh, that's too rich for my blood!" I can easily polish off a slice of pate like most people would a slice of cake.
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My intention was to let the confit rest for about a month before eating the duck, but one thing led to another, and half a year later, that pot was still in my fridge with its parts intact. The more I thought about it, the more frustrated I became, knowing that breaking into the pot would be time-consuming even if the results were going to be delicious. So one of my New Year's resolutions was: get rid of that giant pot of fat with the confit.
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Chef Jody Adams' slow-roasted duck at
Rialto is some of the best duck you'll ever eat. Period.
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Video or photographic footage of one badly managed farm or even a thousand badly managed farms does not prove that the production of foie gras, as a practice, is necessarily harmful to the health or mental well-being of a duck. Foie gras production should be judged not by the
worst farms, but by the
best, because those are the ones that I'm going to choose to buy my foie from if at all.
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Does anything get golden browner, crispier, or duckier than Peking duck? When properly prepared, the deeply flavored skin should crackle and crunch with the slightest touch of your teeth, and the meat (more of an afterthought, really) should be moist, tender, and flavorful. But getting a decent version—even at a restaurant—can be a chore. Even places that
do do it well generally require at least a day of advanced notice. Why, you might ask?
The preparation is intensely complex, that's why.
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Baking in salt involves burying food in a sand-like mixture of salt and egg white. The salt insulates the food, cooking it gently and evenly. When the dish comes out of the oven,
you crack open the hardened, golden salt shell to unearth a moist, evenly cooked and fragrant buried treasure.
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[Photograph: Sheri Will] I'm sure the Butterball folks have some ninja on retainer that will assassinate me for this, but here it is: I don't like turkey. I can stand it, but given a choice to cook any protein in the world, it's probably the last one I would. I've had it brined, deep fried, roasted, spatchcocked, and sautéed. The only time I really liked it was slathered in mole on a burrito and once at my brother-in-law's, smoked and doused in barbecue sauce à la pulled pork, but both of those experiences were more about the sauce than the meat. There was also the Thanksgiving I confited a bunch of legs. Not bad, but turkey skin cracklins aren't...
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