Okay, dried beans aren't "in season"—they're always available and always the same. But this is really the season for them. As the winter months drag on, I just want to curl up on a couch with a bowl of chili that's filled with a lot of beans—not beans that come out of a can, but beans that were soaked overnight. Dried beans are best when we're hibernating. The beans swell and swell and swell as they stay submerged in water, and then they become soft after they're cooked.