[Photograph: Nick Kindelsperger] The club sandwich is a tall wonder containing turkey (sometimes chicken), lettuce, tomato, bacon, and no less than three slices of bread, all cut into quarters and secured with frilly toothpicks. I was so ready to have a gleeful romp with the American classic that I even bought the special toothpicks and a bag of chips to dump in the middle. You can't imagine my high spirit as I sat down to this light dinner. Nowadays the sandwich is bastardized because it is usually made as a three-decker, which is not authentic (whoever started that horror should be forced to eat three-deckers three times a day the rest of his life)... — James Beard on the...
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