Entries tagged with 'chiles'
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Spice Hunting: How To Spice Up Winter Citrus

For something light and bright in the depth of winter, nothing beats citrus. Except that the parade of bright and tart and sour can get a little tiring after a while, especially when it's the only flavor of its kind on the plate. Spices are my favorite way to round out the harsh flavors of citrus and bring them more in line with this frigid season.

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Sauced: Ancho-Orange Hot Fudge

Since I'm a sucker for the orange and chocolate combo and the pleasing mild heat of ancho chiles, this was like hot fudge on crack for me.

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Spice Hunting: Chipotle

If there were an A-list for spices in the American food mass media, chipotle would be near the top. It appears on the menu of almost every chain restaurant with the merest aspirations toward Southwestern food. Hell, it's the namesake of one of those chains. But beneath the hype is a chile really worth getting to know. It's versatile, bold in flavor, and hot enough to hold its own against other strong flavors.

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Spice Hunting: Urfa Biber

Urfa chiles are some of the best for autumn, full of smoky, sultry flavors that pair well with hearty vegetables, pungent cheeses, and braised meats. Their heat is tricky—mild at first, it builds over the course of a meal. They're perfect for when you want a dark, rich chile without the overpowering, overused punch of chipotle.

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Spice Hunting: Harissa, North African Hot Sauce

If you're fan of heat and have harissa on hand, you can move that sriracha from the front of your fridge to second row. Harissa, artfully blended with oil, garlic, and lemon, kissed with cumin and coriander, is a whole different game. It can be as hot or not as you want it to be. And beneath a jolt of sharp, bright chile drums a beat of spice that elevates and compliments instead of overpowers.

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Spice Hunting: Drying Chiles at Home

Even with the best of intentions, we can all be forgetful at times. But this isn't always a bad thing. Last month, after going on an 11-day vacation and forgetting about a few Thai bird chiles languishing in the fridge, I returned home to discover that my shriveled chiles had dried to a near-petrified state. A whiff confirmed their flavor was very much active—the most rich, verdant, fresh aroma I've ever encountered in a chile.

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Spice Hunting: Lemon Drop Chiles

As we've learned on Spice Hunting, chiles don't always taste like you expect. Remember aji panca, the sweet purple chile that tastes oddly like blueberries? Well here's another Peruvian import (a nation whose chiles I seem to have a thing for) that's something of an edible surprise: lemon drop chiles.

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Spice Hunting: Aji Panca

Aji panca is hot but not fiery. It's got just a touch of smoke, and it's sweet—so much so that, on my palette at least, it tastes like blueberries. For cooks who like to experiment with their chiles, it's a great addition to the pantry.

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Spice Hunting: Curd Chiles

Curd chiles are uniquely preserved—they're dried, marinated, and cured—and are all the more delicious for it. The preservation process alleviates some of their heat and imbues them with a tangy, yogurty, ever so slightly cheesy flavor.

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Market Scene: Mercado de Coyoacán, Mexico City

The first thing that caught our eye upon walking into the market was some beautiful huitlacoche still on the cob at Local (Stall) #88. We'd seen some loose huitlacoche at an improvised stall on the street on our way there, and had been impressed. There was a good variation in the size and color of the pieces, and there was no sign of dampness or sogginess. Mark explained that these were key characteristics to look for in good huitlacoche. Miguel Ángel, who was manning Local #88 that day, was selling his product for 100 pesos (about $8) per kilo.

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