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Snapshots from Dijon: Torsade Flammande from Boulangerie Paul

This is a breadstick that will surely haunt my dreams, and perhaps one worth even attempting to replicate at home. Imagine a torpedo-shaped roll of the best quality—open-textured, chewy, crusty French bread—then stud that bread with oozing pockets of melted emmenthal and salty nuggets or mimolette, the cantaloupe-shaped cheese from Lille. Sharp and salty, with a Parmesan-like texture, mimolette is colored bright-orange with annatto and has a mottled surface that's been treated with cheese mites introduced to add their distinct hazelnut-scented aroma. More