If you're accustomed to light, gauzy rieslings, this Alsatian wine might overwhelm. It's a powerful, supple wine, with some of the creaminess of, say, a Chardonnay, but the tartness of riesling that makes it food-friendly, and a bit of alcoholic heat at 13.5% ABV.
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At the recent Theise portfolio tasting, the Nikolaihof wines stopped me in my tracks—not just the riesling, but the Grüner and Gelber Muskateller as well. Sipping these wines, the buzz of the room blurred into the background, and the flavors washed over me: fruit and stones, flowers pressing through slate, herbs releasing their oils. So I've been hoarding this bottle, waiting for a night when I had a good long time to spend with it.