The second most popular food in Buffalo, after the wings of course, is the beef on weck. It's comprised of three parts: the bread, the meat, and the horseradish. If any one of those components is off, the entire sandwich suffers. The kimmelweck roll, or 'weck for short, should be flecked with enough caraway seeds and salt crystals that you hardly need to season the beef since so much flavor power comes from the bread. The beef should be juicy and pinkish in the middle, with browned edges. Extra points if a guy in a white butcher's coat is carving it. And the horseradish—fresh, grated into mini shreds, and potent. We drove around the Buffalo area this week and made four beef on weck stops, looking for the best. And we found it.