The french toast at Nopa is justly famous; as much a custard as a breadstuff, loose and weeping cream as you press your fork in. The secret is a base of eggy pan de mie (soaked in lots of cream), just crisped on the edges and crowned with honey butter. This winter's version is strewn with strands of meyer lemon marmalade; syrup is optional and a little obscene. Even a half order is really more than one person can handle. Instead, go family style, and choose something savory first.