I had the opportunity to serve as a judge in Seattle's Cochon 555, a competition where local chefs take on heritage pigs with delicious results. Here's my point of view, from the judge's table. This was true nose-to-tail eating, most prominent in the long-cooking broths with head parts, the ubiquitous use of lardo, the addictive chicharrones, and the appearance of pork in the desserts.
'The Woodsman Tavern' on Serious Eats
It doesn't always happen this way, but often enough a restaurant will prove unsuccessful in meeting perhaps-unattainable expectations. That's exactly what happened when I tried the Griddle Burger at The Woodsman Tavern, after it clinched the #7 spot on GQ's "Ten Best New Restaurants in America" list.