"Chris Pandel might be the best organ meat chef in the city." Photograph of Chris Pandel from thebristolchicago.com I’ve not been especially easy on The Bristol. In an old review, I accused them of cooking mediocre dishes, mixing terrible drinks, and ripping off other Chicago restaurants. Despite all of that, I'd been particularly intrigued by a plate of thinly sliced rare pork liver topped with bitter greens, toasted hazelnuts, sautéed chanterelles, and fennel vinaigrette from chef Chris Pandel that I ate during my review period. It was one of the best dishes I ate last year. Any displeasure I expressed towards the Bristol was a sort of a fatherly disappointment. In that one dish I recognized they could be so...
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Pretty Province Manzanita Trees at Province Randy Zweiban, formerly of Norman Van Aken’s Miami outpost Norman’s and Chicago’s Nacional 27, opened up his new spot, Province, last week. When I spoke with Zweiban recently he said he’d chosen “maybe the worst time in the last 150 years to open a restaurant.” He wasn’t worried though, saying his former mentor Van Aken always used to ask why, if the restaurant business was so hard to make money at, was there a restaurant on every corner in America? Hard to argue with that. That being said, Zweiban’s new LEED certified dining room featuring reclaimed wood, cork, a breathtaking ceiling mounted grove of petrified Manzanita trees, and mouth-watering food photography from Laurie Proffitt...
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