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Cook the Book: 'Second Helpings of Roast Chicken'

Words by Lucy Baker | Simon Hopkinson is dismayed by the current state of mustard. Specifically, of "the half-used jar of very good, expensive Dijon mustard that has lived on that warm kitchen shelf forever—and yet is still in use. I have been known to throw other people's mustard away... This simply won't do." In truth, Hopkinson is less upset about wasted condiments than he is about what they stand for: our collective trepidation in the kitchen, our growing reliance on prepared foods, and our impatience when it comes to cooking a traditional meal. Hence, we buy a pricey jar of French mustard, add a teaspoon or two to a recipe we make once, and then forget about the mustard... More