Pancetta has a tendency to make most things better. The cured meat, essentially unsoked Italian bacon, does wonderful things to sauces, vegetables, pizzas, and of course sandwiches, as is the case with the Alla Pancetta ($8) at San Matteo.
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This calzonewich is hefty sandwich stuffed with salty mortadella, oily eggplant, and smoked mozzarella, with a dough that preserves the texture and flavor of real pizza.
The first time I stopped by San Matteo on the Upper East Side, I ordered a Margherita, and to be honest, I was a little disappointed. The moisture from the mozzarella made the crust go limp, and the cheese had not melted fully. Was there something wrong with the huge wood-fired oven?