Opening a restaurant’s second location is like making a movie sequel. It should capture the feel, the look, and the ambience of the original—faithfully recreating everything that made it a hit in the first place. But it should also bring something else to the table. Move the story along. The Friendly Toast, just opened on Sunday (May 17) in Cambridge, Massachusetts, does so admirably. It’s hard to replicate the success of a local institution. Up in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, the original Friendly Toast has earned lines out the door since 1994 for its mammoth pancakes, crazy egg dishes, and over-the-top kitschy décor. But from an airy space in Kendall Square, the owners have crafted a second Crayola-hued temple of...
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Every city has its local institutions—and small New England cities tend to be particularly devoted to their own. But hometown pride only partly explains the wild popularity of The Friendly Toast in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. There’s the décor: the bright red walls of this kitsched-out eatery are a veritable gallery of mid-century Americana, with plastic sculptures of Dick and Jane perched over the open kitchen, “Enjoy Life With Miller!” signs, and KFC-brand shades on the hanging lights. There’s the late-night schedule: open 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Monday through Thursday, but 24 hours all weekend, never shutting its doors from Friday morning through Sunday night. And then there’s the food. The Friendly Toast serves the most eclectic array...
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