Photograph courtesy of Phillip Foss Anya Von Bremzen recently wrote a piece in Food & Wine inquiring whether, with all the high end chefs slumming at the low end these days, we really need the pomp and circumstance of jacket-required, high-end fine dining anymore. She’d started thinking that we didn’t, but then a meal at Laurent Gras’ super sleek seafood boutique L20 threw her in a tailspin. I can’t say I haven’t pondered the same thing many a time after a gross of cider glazed pork rinds and fish stew at Paul Kahan’s Publican or a perfectly roast chicken at Rob and Allison Levitt’s Mado here in Chicago. After all, after getting full on fabulous, though rustically prepared, tasty...
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